SIMON RITCHIE receives a couple of pleasant surprises down on the farm

It was a night of surprises at the Old Farmhouse at Raskelf, near Easingwold. Surprise number one was the set dinner menu - SIX courses.

And surprise number two was the cost. We hadn't known how much it would be till we got the bill, and I was sweating quite a bit clutching my cheque book. But in the end I needn't have worried. It was only £17.50 a head for the six-course meal. In some places in York you would have only got the main course for that. Amazing value indeed.

The Old Farmhouse, which is both a restaurant and a country hotel, was taken over some 18 months ago by chef Andrew Duxberry, his wife Andrea, her mother Carol and her husband Trevor.

It is a converted 200-year-old farmhouse which retains all of its old character. It has such a warm and homely feel to it.

On arrival we were ushered into one of the lounges and handed the menu. It was then we were told about the six courses.

After the initial shock had worn off we scanned the menu and prepared for the marathon ahead.

My partner Jayne, a vegetarian, was a little perturbed by no non-meat dishes on the main course list.

But it was at this point that the extremely friendly chef, Andrew Duxberry, popped his head around the door and said hello. I asked him about the vegetarian dilemma and he said they didn't put it on the menu but bustling up something would be no problem. After a few moments he and Jayne decided on a mixed vegetable crumble.

After supping our drinks and relaxing in the lounge (which was just like someone's sitting room) we were taken into the restaurant.

This was surprisingly busy for a Tuesday night and one of the first things we noticed was the horseracing theme throughout the dining area. Walls were adorned with paintings of horseracing legends such as Lester Piggott, Frankie Dettori, Red Rum and Desert Orchid.

I had some difficulty deciding on a starter as they all sounded so tempting. In the end it was a toss-up between the green-lipped mussels, the crispy prawn parcels and the smoked Swallowdale trout. The trout won the day. The fish just melted in the mouth and the horseradish sauce complimented it so well.

Jayne went for one of her all-time favourites, garlic mushrooms. She has become a connoisseur on the dish and the Old Farmhouse offering was one of the best she'd tasted. I had a quick nibble and was equally impressed.

Our other dining guest, Jayne's Nan, picked the melon, which came with an assortment of exotic fruits.

Next came a strawberry sorbet which was extremely light and refreshing, just the thing to prepare the palette for the next course.

For the main meal I picked Chicken Raskelf - tender, succulent strips of chicken in a rich leek, mushroom and wine sauce. It was gorgeous.

Jayne's vegetable crumble, which consisted of mushrooms, carrots and broccoli in a creamy sauce topped with crumble and almonds, was equally as delicious.

Jayne's Nan went for the grilled gammon steak. This was due to come with free-range eggs but when asked if she could have something different they suggested hot peaches. Nothing seemed to much trouble.

All our dishes came with tureens of fresh red cabbage, new potatoes, saut potatoes, carrots and broccoli.

For dessert I chose hot berries - a wonderful combination of blackberries, strawberries and redcurrants mixed in a Cointreau sauce and poured into a tall glass, topped with a blob of vanilla ice-cream.

Jayne went for the pavlova and her Nan the gateaux, which was a puff pastry slice filled with cream and fresh fruit. Both gave their sweets top marks.

A selection of Yorkshire cheeses was next on the menu, but sadly we decided to skip it because we were just too full.

The last course, coffee with mints was served in another one of the hotel's lounges and it was at this point that Jayne's Nan, a real Yorkshire lass who doesn't mince her words when it comes to judging food declared the meal "the best I've had for a very long time." Some complement indeed.

Booking is essential at the Old Farmhouse and if you are vegetarian or bringing children it's best to tell them when you book and they can make arrangements which they're quite happy to do. Children's portions, and even plainer dishes are available for youngsters at a reduced cost.

Restaurant:The Old Farmhouse

Address:Raskelf,near Easingwold

Telephone:01347 821971

Reviewed:26/9/98

Food:Superb

Value:Excellent

Service:With a smile

Ambience:Homely and quaint, smart but not stuffy

PICTURE:Andrew Duxberry in the Old Farmhouse, Raskelf