Filling up at the clubhouse - Sparrows Restaurant and Bar

I WAS warned that the Sparrows restaurant was tricky to find, but thanks to the detailed instructions I was given when I made my booking, we came upon it with little difficulty.

Tucked away at the Cocksford Golf Club, a mere putt away from the small village of Stutton, just off the A64 near Tadcaster, the Sparrows is the 19th hole for local members. Only it's much more than that.

Situated above the clubhouse and shop, it includes a bar, bistro and restaurant, all in an open-plan setting with windows all around offering fantastic panoramic views of the greens.

On arrival, about 20 male golfers were congregated in the middle of the bar area, holding a meeting.

Besides my party of four - my partner Nick and his folks, Mike and Hilary Pears - there were only another three sets of diners in: all couples tucking into what looked like good, hearty bar food.

We ordered drinks and were offered apologies that the restaurant was closed because of a function the evening before. However, we were invited to order from the bistro-board menus potted around the bar and dine in the pleasant, adjacent restaurant area.

After placing our orders, we settled in the bar, enjoying our drinks until we were told our table was ready. A basket full of warm, fluffy-soft, white French bread heralded the meal.

For starters, Nick and Mike enjoyed hot garlic bread with mozzarella: two long canoes of toasted French bread full of just-melted cheese. Delicious, they both declared, but quite filling.

Hilary - an excellent cook herself - chose the carrot and orange soup and was pleased to discover it passed the Pears test with flying colours: home-made and piping hot, with lovely flavour and just the right consistency.

I was equally pleased with my chicken and pork pat which was served with toast and salad.

For the main course, Mike couldn't resist gammon steak, eggs and chips and he wasn't disappointed. He found the gammon very tender and not too salty. The chips were crisp and fat, but the egg was slightly underdone for his liking.

I adore traditional grub and couldn't pass up the opportunity to try bangers and mash. It was two rings of Cumberland sausage on top of a bed of horseradish mash drowned in onion gravy. My mouth watered at the very sight. And oh, was it delicious. The sausages were the star turn... so soft, they melted in the mouth, with not a bit of gristle or fat to scowl over. The mash was nice and thick, but I could barely taste the horseradish.

Luckily I was able to pinch a dollop from my other half as he had ordered roast beef and all the trimmings. The size of the portion almost defeated him and at £5.25 the slabs of beef, giant Yorkshire pud and pile of veggies amounted to great value for money.

Hilary opted for the roast lamb, pronouncing it to be beautifully cooked: tender and not too red. The Yorkshire pudding and vegetable medley of mange tout, carrots, cauliflower and new potatoes won equal praise, however she was disappointed with the roast potatoes, which seemed stale.

Our hungers more than satisfied, we passed on dessert, but finished off with some fine, freshly-brewed coffee. The bill, with a couple of rounds of drinks, was just over £42, outstanding value for what was a truly tasty and filling meal.

During coffee, the chef, a young Irish man called Jon Wilson, came out to check we'd enjoyed our meal.

Happy, we were able to pass on our congratulations. In return he told us that the Sparrows had been under new management since June and was trying to pull in the punters by poviding a mix of great food for hungry golfers in the bar area and discerning diners in the restaurant. He hoped we'd spread the word.

Little did he know that he was speaking to someone who could do exactly that.

Sparrows Restaurant and Bar, Cocksford Golf Club, Stutton, Tadcaster, North Yorkshire. For bookings and directions, telephone: 01937 530346

Food: Very tasty 4/5

Service: Excellent 5/5

Value: Unbeatable 5/5

Ambience: Pleasant 3/5

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