COVERDALE is quiet, not many visitors wind their way up its narrow roads, and the locals are very friendly, including the farmers. The two facts are probably unconnected. I come here for this newspaper now and then, out of season, the last time in January for a route from Horsehouse, taking in the east side of the valley. This week we use the same little village as a start for the west side story.

First though a gentle warm up, a mile along the River Cover glittering in the sunshine and swirling round dark pools under ash, alder, and sycamore. One sycamore had a luxurious cloak of epiphytic ferns, not something I've often noticed, and a plus for a tree that many people dislike as a sylvan incomer.

In Gammersgill a farmer's wife was sorting rocks for her stonewalling husband, and sorted me on the best route up the flank of the valley. It's lovely, you sort of follow a gill that has alders like the River Cover, but almost different trees, small and gnarled and ancient looking. Also, there are thorns and hazels, hares and high-level stone barns, and a flush of mushrooms. Hawkweeds, a pretty version of the dandelion, were in flower, and here and there some butterflies that were probably the offspring of summer migrants. A voluble wren wove in and out of a wall.

The scene across the valley is classic Dales - intake fields in a brighter green and an altitude of softer colours. We are on a shelf with ground above and below, but a shelf not always flat, so we dip in and out of a smallish dry gully and then have to do the same for quite a large valley.

This walk is ninety-nine per cent on grassland. There is no heather hereabouts, therefore no grouse. So for something to shoot we have pheasants. Pheasants need cover, and this is provided by copses of conifers that are scattered about, somewhat incongruous. You will see that there are a lot of 'directions', no problem, there are a lot of waymarks. Sometimes people complain about the aesthetics of these. I do not, but perhaps I am biased.

Anyway, the views from the top are terrific, one way down and out of the valley, over the flatlands to the North York Moors. The other way to the big country and Great Whernside.

The descent is quick, a bit rough, and nominally (after a dry spell) by a gill. For the waterfall fan there was a six-foot dribble, and a good walk finished in dappled sunlight and the hum of large hoverflies.

DIRECTIONS

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

1. From church, cross road to track behind pub,100 yards, right and 20 yards across grass to fieldgate, left, fieldgate,10 o'clock.

2. Gate to riverside, 3 stiles (ignore first signpost to Gammersgill), 2 gated squeezers, gated squeezer (waymarked) then 10 o'clock uphill to stile/fieldgate, 11 o'clock to wall stile.

3. Fieldgate to road, right, bridge. Gate on left after last house, uphill through field, fieldgate and right, round left-hand corner then up to but not through fieldgate with 3-way signpost then 11 o'clock uphill across field.

4. Stile/fieldgate and right so gently pulling away from wood, up to stile/fieldgate by first barn.

5. Pass second barn, 100 yards, post in field and straight on for 100 yards, cross side stream to wall stile, go down to Turp Beck and look for small gate on left by water, then continue by Beck.

6. Fifty yards before wall ahead fork left, 50 yards, squeezer/fieldgate, straight on, ladderstile then head for fieldgate on left 100 yards before conifer wood ahead.

7. Downhill from this fieldgate, 100 yards, fieldgate on right, above barns then rejoin track at fieldgate, through wood.

8. Track loops in front of house, tarmac, 100 yards, fieldgate on right and 1 o'clock uphill, stile by corner of wood, gently uphill by wall on left.

9. Round right-hand wall corner, 50 yards, small fieldgate on left, track descends steeply, joining a wall coming in from the left, gate by ladderstile and follow High Gill back to Horsehouse.

FACT FILE

Distance: Nearly five miles.

Time: Three hours.

Start: Horsehouse.

Right of Way: The complete route is along public rights of way.

Date walked: September 3, 2000.

Road route: Horsehouse is seven miles south west of Leyburn. Go via Carlton not West Scrafton.

Car parking: Roadside.

Lavatories: None

Refreshments: Inn at Horsehouse.

Tourist & Public Transport Information: Leyburn TIC 01969 623069.

Map: Based on OS Outdoor Leisure 30, Yorkshire Dales Northern and Central areas.

Terrain: High and low level grassland.

Footwear: Walking boots.

Points of interest: River Cover, upland pastures, views.

Difficulty: Moderate

Dogs: Suitable for dogs but keep on leads or under close control.

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.