Barfly TONY 'TIPPLER' MALLETT made it across the Channel in style to find that Euro capital Brussels deserves acclaim for its beers rather than its bureaucrats
BRUSSELS on a business trip? Tippler joining the international jet set? Well, not quite. More the international train set really...Sadly this was business - and not just an excuse to go on the razz tasting all those fabulous Belgian beers. Well, maybe just a few...
Being the organised bloke that I am (not), I was going to need a drink or three eventually. Yes - all the flights from Leeds/Bradford to Brussels were already fully booked, so it was through the Channel Tunnel on a chuffin' chuff-chuff for your humble correspondent.
I needed to be in a meeting in Brussels at 1pm their time - which meant a departure from Waterloo International at 8.27am (our time) and, to be honest, I thought the journey was going to be a pain. But it wasn't.
The simplest way to do it was to get a speedy GNER train down to London the night before and stay with a mate. This allowed me to do two hours work in comfort before arrival at King's Cross - and have a night with friends to boot.
Next morning I hit Waterloo in good time to pick up my tickets, flash my new passport (the photos are no better!) and enter Eurostar's departure lounge - a sort of airport without the planes...
Once aboard the train I had time and space to do more preparation. But I was looking forward to getting the meeting over and enjoying my overnight stop!
Eurostar is extremely swift, clean and comfortable - a real joy for the traveller - although I felt some trepidation as we sped toward the tunnel. That day, a Russian submarine lay at the bottom of some far-off sea after a tragic accident. Not the best time for your first subterranean crossing perhaps...
Thankfully we emerged, dry and unscathed, in France - and really put the boot down. The tracks are better, and faster, in Europe and we were soon cruising at our top speed of 300kph - that's 186mph in real money. Phew! Thus we reached Europe's capital bang on time and I taxied to the meeting feeling fresh and rested.
Later, it was time for the fun. A wander around this beautiful city reveals some eye-catching architecture, whether it is the outrageously-ornate guildhalls in the Grande Place, the futuristic Atomium, the neo-classical Stock Exchange building or a clock with its dancing figures. After all that gawping it was time for some serious relaxing.
Near my centrally-placed hotel lay a bar called La Toison d'or (The Golden Faade) where an array of bottles, a beer menu and a barman with even less English than I have French awaited.
"Start with what you know, kid..." I thought, and ordered the first biere d'abbaye; a Trappist-brewed Chimay Rouge at seven per cent. It came with its own ornate, round-bowled glass for added flavour and blew the cobwebs away big-time! Not only that, I reckon my French suddenly improved too...
Some of the best beers in the world are brewed from recipes devised by Trappist Monks, who presumably needed something to do between prayers in the abbeys.
The Lord works in mysterious ways, his wonders to perform!
Next up was the standard draught Grimbergen Blond - very flavoursome and thirst-quenching, as well as relatively cheap at 85 Belgian Francs (about £1.10).
Then, warming to the task and feeling comfortably lightheaded, I tried the Westmalle Double (seven per cent), Orval (6.2 per cent), and finally the Chimay Bleue (nine per cent). All cost just under £2, came in a specific glass and were potent, heady and delicious. Except the Orval, that is - I had the dark, liquorice-flavoured version and, like most gentlemen, decided I prefer 'blondes'...
La Toison d'or was fairly touristy and the prices, while okay, are higher than in other parts of the city. Visitors can pay as little as 60BF for a glass of Grimbergen or other 'house' beer. That's less than a quid for a big half. But, hey, I'd deserved a treat...
Next day, we sped again through the tunnel. I sipped over-priced Kronenberg (thumbs down Eurostar!) in the comfy bar and reflected on a recent quote from the Belgian Interior Minister: "Belgians," he said, "are hard working. But we lack ambition.
"That's why we make the best beer in the world - but everyone drinks Heineken..."
Sadly, it's true. Then again, that leaves the best bieres for those of us with a smattering of good taste!
Fact file
Eurostar, prices from:
£60 return (if you book 14 days in advance) to £350 First Class Business return. Frequent trains every day to and from Brussels and Paris.
Journey times are two-and-a-half hours (Waterloo-Brussels) and three hours (Waterloo-Paris). Passport required.
PICTURE: a friendly Belgian barman shows off his country's best assets - the biere
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