Dishy dales

The 53-seater luxury coach took me and a few other outdoor types through Hutton-le-Hole for a day out at Danby. It was too early for those that use the Moorsbus for a chauffeured pub-crawl round the outlying hostelries of the North York Moors.

I adjusted the seat, angled the air vent, pulled back the curtain and took in the bus-improved views deep into Farndale and Rosedale, heather glorious purple, half an hour of unadulterated pleasure, and if the bus were full, eco-unadulterating. Old stones mark old roads and estates, the moorland economy is counted out in grouse butts.

Eskdale appeared in sunlit mist and rain rattled on the coach roof. It was the last shower, I was lucky.

In a flash I was enjoying an outside cuppa and carrot cake at the charming Moors Centre.

Always lots to do and see here. I was surprised by Graeme Skinner's photographs of adders, the variation of colour and pattern in the snakes, grey, black, striped and diamond ones.

Along with a compass course there is a 'Star Tracker' if you want to talk about the midnight rambler, as the House of Lords do in their efforts to spike the Right To Roam bill.

As rangers arranged their Land Rovers and walkers drifted off in different directions, I headed north to a roll of thunder, following a sun-dappled wood into a sweet, quiet valley.

A wide grassy track takes us to a bridge over Black Beck. There are duckboards over boggy bits and harebells. Then we climb the valley's eastern flank where heather battles with bracken. The west side is notched with intake fields.

South from the viewpoint is a dishy look down Fryup Dale and Danby Dale, and separating the two Ainthorpe Rigg and on the Rigg, Danby Castle. I was pleased how good it is up here; you don't get much of an inkling from the road through Eskdale.

We travel the 'tops' part by way of an ancient stone trod, a pannierman's causeway, then descend to a garden with a blizzard of waymarks to, for me, the unexpected plus of a small blind valley.

Next we dip into Danby. Here you can pull off your boots, and have a pint at the Duke of Welling because there is not far to go, and if you have to wait for a bus the Moors Centre is a useful place to kill time.

Fact file

Distance: Nearly four miles.

Time: Two hours.

Start: The Moors Centre, Danby.

Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way.

Date walked: Saturday, August 19.

Road route: Moors Centre is two miles east of Castleton, half a mile east of Danby.

Car parking: Free car park.

Lavatories: The Moors Centre, Danby.

Refreshments: The Moors Centre, Danby. Pub and teashop at Danby village.

Tourist & Public Transport Information: Danby Moors Centre, tel 01287 660540.

Map: Based on OS Outdoor Leisure 26 North York Moors western area.

Terrain: Valley to the moors.

Footwear: Walking boots.

Points of interest: Crow Wood by the car park - educational, wheelchair access, no dogs. Purple heather.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Dogs: Suitable for dogs but keep on leads or under close control.

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast tel 0891 500 418.

Observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.

Directions

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

1. Left from Moors Centre along road, straight across at junction, path up through wood.

2. Grassy track two thirds of way through field then fork right one o'clock downhill to new gate and streamside path. Footbridge and left, staying by stream.

3. Ladderstile and path at one o'clock through heather up side of valley to wall corner.

4. Follow path/track beside wall/fence around outside edge of intake fields.

5. Left to road, bridge over stream, then after 100 yards the bridleway officially begins (paralleling the road) but easier to walk another 200 yards on verge and pick up path at makeshift post 50 yards from road and clear path across moor.

6. Follow path (waymarked posts) up to a gully, turn left, 25 yards then cross this gully by rowan tree to path down to back yard/garden of house (waymark on old railway wagon). Cross grass and down to gate/fieldgate, through field (fence on right) gate to woodland path, footbridge, stepping stones.

7. Gate to grassy path uphill on moor, 200 yards then switch back left for 100 yards downhill to gate/metal fieldgate and track through field (signed footpath).

8. Track past barn, gate/fieldgate in front of house. Left to road, straight over junction at Danby, uphill.

9. At top of hill, tarmac drive on left (signed bridleway) swings right, 10 yards, fork right.

10. Fieldgate to moorland track uphill but as track swings left, go straight on, that is staying by wall to your right - on grass. Fieldgate and rejoin outward route.