Brolly good time

But he might just as easily have been talking about the rain, which made this, our first visit to the South-West, a less than memorable one.

But it seems anyone who has holidayed at home this summer has needed more than a little of the Dunkirk spirit - so we simply gritted our teeth, pulled on our anoraks and got on with it.

We were staying at the Golden Coast Holiday Village, one of three similar parks run by Woolacombe Bay Holiday Parcs just outside the small North Devon seaside town of Woolacombe.

And though it may have been teeming down outside, we were grateful we weren't one of the brave few toughing it out under canvas.

Instead, we were snug and comfortable in one of the village's new Alpine-style Honeysuckle Lodges, which boast double glazing and central heating, as well as cable TV - all of which we put to good use.

And if you need to keep the kids happy when the weather's not so hot, this is the place to do it.

Our four-year-old daughter Bethany was keen to join the Billy Beachball club, and it was soon a case of been there, done that, got the T-shirt.

The youngsters were kept busy with a morning and afternoon programme of events featuring Billy and his girl friend Betty, assisted by the hardworking club leaders. If that wasn't enough to tire them out, the evening's mad scramble on the disco floor was sure to do the trick.

During our visit, a morning colouring session proved a big hit, and after an exhausting workout in the soft-play area, it was on to the heated indoor swimming pool, followed by some rough and tumble at the outdoor play area.

All ages are catered for at the Golden Coast, with health and fitness facilities, outdoor as well as indoor swimming pools, a creche for smaller children and babies, evening entertainment, and a free bus linking all three sites.

The beach at nearby Woolacombe is one of only a handful to boast a Blue Flag, certainly putting the East Coast's grubby ones to shame. But only the hardiest of surfers were prepared to brave the weather - the rest of us tramped round the cafes and gift shops, thoughtfully examining the special offers on wetsuits as the rain trickled down our necks.

So, we decided, when the beach is off limits it's time to fall back on that reliable old friend - for our family at least - the National Trust.

Just a few miles away from Woolacombe stands Arlington Court, a Georgian manor house set in acres of rolling Devonshire parkland. The restored Victorian garden was not at its best under the leaden skies - but here at least was enough under cover to fill an afternoon.

Highlight was the Trust's collection of carriages, housed in the stable block, among them a tiny one used by the American showman Charles Stratton, better known as Tom Thumb.

After the children's quiz left mum and dad stumped, and we ruled out a carriage ride in the rain without the benefit of that wetsuit, it was on to the house itself.

My wife loved one small detail here - to enter the main house, visitors have to ring the front door bell and then are admitted by a steward, just as guests arriving in days gone by might have been greeted by a butler.

Then, once inside, Bethany's attention was captured by the large collection of model boats and ships. Not surprisingly, we learned that the house had links with round-the-world yachtsman Sir Francis Chichester.

That only left time to visit the tearooms for a superb Devonshire cream tea, before the heavens opened again, and we made a dash for the car.

"It'll be fine tomorrow, we'll be able to spend the day on the beach," I foolishly commented as we drove back.

But next morning, as the sun resolutely refused to show his face, it was time to get those National Trust membership cards working again.

This time we drove south to Castle Drogo. Perched precariously on a granite outcrop overlooking Dartmoor, Castle Drogo is perhaps the most remarkable achievement of architect Sir Edwin Lutyens.

I found it a fascinating contradiction - built in a medieval style in a beautiful and isolated spot, yet it is easy to imagine living comfortably here with all the conveniences of the early 20th century, including electricity.

There was plenty for children too - a new playground, lots of open space and hidden away in the woods, the Bunty House, a child's-size doll's house, built for the young members of the Drewe family, who built the castle.

One final note - we could never have survived our damp stay in North Devon without the mammoth bar meals served up by Dave and his cheerful staff at The Old Mill, the charming 17th Century pub located on the edge of the Golden Coast site.