GRAEME ROBERTSON's quick eat

On a recent early morning trip to London I was struck by the number of places open for breakfast. Where in York, I wondered, do early morning snackers go?

My search began at 8.15am but it was 9.05am and six attempts before I encountered somewhere that was open. Some of the establishments I tried, although advertising a breakfast menu, were closed. Looking through windows some clearly showed the remnants of the previous day's business.

I was obviously Bonds' first customer of the day. Faced with the menu did I choose the Mega, Standard or Full Monty breakfast or make up my own combination? Tempted by the Full Monty (egg, bacon, sausage, tomato and mushroom) my order was dispatched to the kitchen.

It was cooked from scratch, arrived steaming inside a soft baguette and turned out to be a very satisfying meal. One point though. Why put a serviette between the baguette and plate?

I had also ordered toast. Three slices came in a toast rack. And real butter in a dish; none of this packeted stuff. Two cups of tea from a pot which contained a single tea bag. Great!

There is more room to this bistro than I had imagined. Bright yellow walls and black furniture may be an acquired taste. Modern art is displayed on the walls.

I took the opportunity to look at the other menus. Here was a venue that offered some items for both lunch and in the evening without putting the price up. Now there's honesty.

Sandwiches are also available. Swiss chicken and vegetarian Greek style caught my eye. The range of sweets at £2.50 may be expensive but on the other hand I didn't see the portion size.

All in all an enjoyable start to my day for a cost of £4.85.

Restaurant:Bonds Bistro

Address:New Street,York

Telephone:01904 634851

Reviewed:26/9/98