SIMON RITCHIE unbuckles his belt for some big treats at Craig's Restaurant in York's Fishergate

Craig's Restaurant at the Blue Bridge Hotel, York, had been recommended to us by a friend about six months ago, but we had never got round to going. So when asked by the Eating Out editor to give it a try we jumped at the chance.

And our visit could not have come at a more topical time as it was announced this week that the Fishergate hotel has just been bought by Colin and Sharon March, who also own St Denys Hotel in the city.

On arrival, we enjoyed a drink in the hotel's cellar bar while we read the menu. It offered a variety of tempting dishes including a number of vegetarian options, which pleased my wife Jayne.

The cost was £10 for three courses, although you had to pay between £1 and £2 extra for some of the dishes.

We were soon led upstairs to the dining room which was fairly busy with both hotel residents and other diners.

The restaurant has a cosy and relaxing feel to it, and the subtle lighting and candles make it ideal for a romantic night out.

As soon as we were seated we were brought half a small loaf of freshly-baked crusty bread.

Then came our starters. I chose a good northern dish - Cumberland sausage with black pudding (£1.75 extra) and as soon as saw it I regretted the cheese and onion toastie I'd rustled up when I got home from work. If I knew how much food I would be getting that evening, I would have fasted all day!

My dish consisted of three good-sized Cumberland sausages and two chunks of black pudding which were crisp on the outside, but soft in the centre. These rested on a thick bed of piping hot apple sauce. It was delicious, but very filling. It could easily have done as my main course.

Jayne went for an old favourite - garlic mushrooms topped with stilton cheese (£1.25 extra).

In most restaurants, this popular starter consists of either whole button mushrooms or sliced ones, but at Craig's the chef opted for three large open cup mushrooms, which were smothered in garlic and cooked in their own juices. Jayne's verdict - delicious.

We looked at each other in disbelief when our waitress arrived a little later with the main courses.

My plate was filled with tender strips of chicken and pork (£1.95 extra) together with mushrooms and green and yellow peppers. These were covered with the curiously-named Drunken Bullock Sauce (say that after a few pints!) - a rich, creamy concoction with a hint of whisky. It was gorgeous.

Jayne was impressed with her mushroom stroganoff, which came with a mound of fluffy white rice topped with a delightful rose created from a tomato skin!

Within seconds the vegetables arrived, although there was hardly any space on either of our plates for anything else.

We were given a tureen full of freshly-cooked broccoli, cauliflower, carrots and new potatoes melted with butter and a bowl full of chunky homemade chips.

After unbuckling my belt by a notch or two I was ready for my dessert - vanilla ice-cream covered with Bailey's Irish Cream. Jayne chose the light and fluffy lemon lush after overhearing that a diner from a table behind us had snapped up the last slice of pecan pie!

The total bill, including drinks, came to a tad under £30. Brilliant value.

Craig's Restaurant at the Blue Bridge Hotel, Fishergate, York

Tel 01904 621193

Restaurant: Craig's Restaurant at the Blue Bridge Hotel

Address: Fishergate, York

Telephone: 01904 621193

Reviewed: February 28 2000

Food: ***** very tasty

Value: **** expensive

Service: **** good

Ambience: ****relaxing