The Patio, Swinegate Court, York

Freebird has flown. I remember one very cold February evening two years ago reviewing what was then one of the first restaurants to move into the Swinegate Court development. Freebird was very new and different from any other restaurant in York at that time.

Quite Scandinavian, all bleached wood tables, chairs and floor, but we did enjoy our meal and wished the young couple well with their new venture, especially as at that time Swinegate had yet to 'take off'.

So it was with some surprise as I wandered around the shops in the now upbeat Swinegate, which has become the caf bar quarter of town, to see Freebird had changed hands and become The Patio.

It is decorated in yellows and oranges and is sunny and welcoming. The bleached wood fittings are still there but have weathered somewhat. Even as darkness fell outside the ambience of the Patio didn't dim and candles, as always, add to the Continental feel.

This was Tuesday night and York was almost deserted. Only one other table was occupied by a young couple and they were visitors to the city. But they tucked in and seemed to enjoy their meal.

The menu is wide and varied - ranging from roast beef and Yorkshire pud to pasta dishes to filled baguettes. But is it a caf or a restaurant? And does it really matter? I suspect a beer and a baguette will be served just as willingly as a three-course meal, and that is what makes for a very relaxed atmosphere

And it was my lucky night. Fish pie, my favourite, was not only on the menu (£7.95), it was the daily special at £4.95. As I was having fish for my main course I fancied something meaty so ordered pate for starters.

Chris went for the deep-fried camembert on a bed of cranberries. Both starters came garnished with large portions of salad. They have a cunning way here with red cabbage leaves turning them into a nest to hold a salad of grated carrot and mixed leaves, very pretty.

But after we had chomped our way through one nest of salad with our starters it was a bit daunting later on to face another with our main courses. It would have been nice to have been offered an alternative.

But my pate was tasty and spicy and the camembert was declared creamy and nicely crisp on the outside.

Chris ordered sirloin steak (£8.95), and perhaps invented a new sauce. We had a misunderstanding when the waitress inquired as to whether he wanted pepper sauce or onions and mushrooms with the steak, but not both. Thinking as you do that onions and mushrooms would be served as a matter of course, along with the chips, he said put it all on and if there was any extra to pay to put it on the bill.

The steak was tender and juicy but made even better, Chris thought, with the onion, mushroom and pepper sauce that accompanied it!

My pie was delicious. Lots of fish and prawns in a savoury sauce under a nice creamy mash. Grandma food, tasty and comforting.

And to follow the granny theme, after a very long pause to make room, I managed a slice of caramel apple granny with a blob of ice cream. Not quite how gran made, but I can't resist that combination of toffee and apples.

Chris opted for ice cream and chocolate sauce and we then sat and nursed a large mugful of hot strong coffee before heading out into the still deserted streets of York.

The bill came to just over £38, and that included £9.25 for a bottle of very acceptable red wine, so we will be very tempted to pull up a table at The Patio again.

Restaurant: The Patio

Address: Swinegate Court, York YO1 2AJ

Telephone: 01904 627879

Reviewed: April 3 , 1999

Food:

Tasty

Value:

Very good

Service:

Friendly

Ambience:

Relaxed, summery