Russells of Coppergate, York

WE'D always thought this was a lunch and dinner spot, then we saw the notice for morning coffee and afternoon tea.

Asking for the non-smoking area, we were offered a table by the window. Ann watched the late-afternoon shoppers go past while I took in the attractively-carved, wooden facing to the servery, bar and cash desk. On inquiry we were told the panels had come from a church, but the cashier did not know which one.

At a quick glance there did not appear to be anything unusual on the menu. Sandwiches, cakes, pastries etc. We debated what to have while a waitress hovered over us. One Russells Yorkshire cream tea (two fruit scones, butter, jam and cream) at £3.99 was an easy choice. How to complement this proved less so. In the end a Danish almond crown (Danish pastry to most people) and tea at a cost of £3.40 was our selection.

The tea arrived in a single, silver-plated pot. For once we can report an excellent pourer with not a drop running down the spout. Once Ann had removed one of the tea bags from the pot we had a brew that was just about right.

We shared the spoils. The scones were slightly warm, butter softish and jam acceptable. But the cream! This appeared to have been whipped and we actually watched it deflate.

Customers at neighbouring tables sampling carrot cake, gateaux and chocolate fudge cake with cream seemed to be no better off than us. The pastry was fresh and sticky. By the number of telephone calls during our visit from people reserving a table for dinner this spot must be popular. But we'd think twice about returning because of our experience with the collapsing cream.

Restaurant:Russells of Coppergate

Address:26 Coppergate, York

Telephone:01904 644330

Reviewed:31/10/98