It was cold. It was wet. It was lunchtime. We left an almost deserted Stonegate and headed for this speciality restaurant.

When we entered only one other table was occupied. Was it the weather or is this place always a quiet spot? Neither it turned out, as the steady arrival of fellow diners testified. Each received the same greeting "hello, sit anywhere you like". Sorry folks, we had the table by the radiator.

The menu was unambiguous. Two courses for £5, three for £7. Fruit juice or mineral water goes with each meal. Also stated; no credit cards, no corkage charge. Vegan and gluten-free dishes were identified and you are invited to "tell us if you have an allergy". So there you are. The parameters are clearly set out.

Our order was taken promptly and while it was being prepared we each received a glass of apple juice.

We opted to omit the starter course which could have been soup, hummus or butterbean pate. Each would have come with a basket of bread.

Ann, not being a fan of highly-seasoned food, and for once ignoring the lasagne, chose a spinach and ricotta cheese pancake. This came piping hot but even with the accompanying shredded red and white cabbage she found it a little bland.

I went for the vegetable spicy goulash on Basmati rice. This also came with the two cabbages. I thoroughly enjoyed the experience. The combination of temperature and spices certainly counteracted the cold outside.

Bread and butter pudding with cream tends to be my wife's downfall. I looked no further than the date and apple crumble. Both sweets were delicious and Ann's came with cream in a separate jug at her request. Apricot and pear fool was also on the menu. Puddings could be taken with custard or yoghurt instead of cream.

The decor was not quite my taste, nor the subdued lighting, but the food was hot and freshly cooked.

That's why we were there!

Restaurant: The Rubicon

Address: 5 Little Stonegate, York

Telephone: 01904 676076

Reviewed: January 30, 1999