The Owls Rest at The Angler Inn - Wise move in the Owls

Every once in a while an eating out expedition unearths a little gem, but our latest venture hit upon a real diamond. The Owls Rest restaurant at The Angler Inn at Lower Dunsforth, near Boroughbridge, is not the easiest of places to reach, but the trip is well worth it.

We had not heard of the pub, or the restaurant, until a couple of our neighbours recommended it. They could not speak too highly of the place, and later we realised why.

As soon as we walked into The Angler Inn we knew we were on to a winner. The pub is full of charm and warmth, and its restaurant, the Owls Rest, is very intimate and romantic - all soft lighting and candles.

We ordered a couple of drinks from the bar and then studied the vast menu. There were dozens of steaks, chicken, duck and pork dishes on offer as well as a large seafood selection, which included grilled scallops, monkfish and rainbow trout.

The Owls Rest specialises in Italian fare so there was also a whole host of pasta dishes to choose from.

When Kate Thompson and Larry Barkhouse took over The Angler Inn about a year ago they saw the potential of its pool and darts room and subsequently transformed it into a charming and stylish restaurant

The centrepiece is a four-foot long aquarium, which is lit up during the evening, and this is surrounded by more than 300 owls of all shapes and forms (mainly of the ceramic and toy variety). There is even a stuffed tawny owl which keeps a beady eye or two on the diners.

We arrived on a Tuesday night (possibly a restaurant's quietest night of the week) so we weren't anticipating a packed house. It turned out that there were no other diners in the restaurant, but that suited us fine.

It's a different kettle of fish on a weekend however, when it is advised to book a table.

For starters I chose the spare ribs (£3.40), and these could have easily done as a main course. They were enormous and coated in a delicious piping-hot fruity sauce.

My wife, Jayne, went for peppers stuffed with rice, tomatoes, and sprigs of mint (£3.50). The peppers were huge and extremely tasty.

For the main course I went for chicken cacciatora - a tender breast of chicken topped with a tangy tomato, onion and mushroom sauce (£7.85). This came with home-made chips, thinly-sliced carrots and chopped cabbage. Again the portions were big.

Jayne was impressed with her tagliatelle a la creme. This consisted of thick strips of pasta wrapped in a creamy sauce with mushrooms and cheese. It came in a bizarre-looking dish resembling a vase which, we were told, stops the sauce from dribbling on the table!

We had decided to skip desserts, but after we discovered a knickerblocker glory was on offer, we decided to share one. Naughty, but very nice. The food was delicious and it was only when talking to Kate Thompson after the meal that we discovered that the restaurant's main chef, a Tunisian named Tao, was away for the week and our dishes were prepared by his 'pupil', Mark Eyles. The master had better watch out!

The Owls Rest also has popular theme-nights. In October these include cuisine from China, India, Arabia and a special Hallowe'en night.

Our meal, with a couple of drinks, came to a very reasonable £31. A portion of all profits goes towards cancer research.

We left very full and very impressed. Dining at The Owls Rest was a very wise move.

To find The Owls Rest, either head towards Boroughbridge on the B8265 (where it is signposted), or alternatively go across Aldwark toll bridge and through Ouseburn.

The Owls Rest at The Angler Inn, Lower Dunsforth, near Boroughbridge Tel. 01423 322537

Restaurant: The Owls Rest at The Angler Inn,

Address: Lower Dunsforth, near Boroughbridge

Telephone: Tel. 01423 322537

Reviewed: October 4 1999

Food: Superb

Value: Very reasonable

Service: Friendly

Ambience: Cosy, warm, intimate