GEORGE WILKINSON relishes the sea air and sweeping views around Runswick Bay
As I write the radio alternates between cheer on the resurrected 'right to roam' and gloom about our worst floods this century. Last sodden weekend I almost felt the need for a 'right to swim', so targeted Runswick Bay where the sea would be unobjectionably wet, and the beach is my favourite.
The drive over the moors was dramatic. Fylingdales Moors was in the midst of its five-inch deluge and part-time becks were raging towards the Derwent. I stopped in Sleights above the River Esk and miraculously the rain also stopped so to celebrate I munched a Bothams' lemon bun bought from across the road. Half an hour later I was at Runswick Bay's cliff-top car park.
The 250-foot descent into the village is steep, but delightful. First you wind down the old road of a generation ago, the Tarmac now well encroached by scrub. There are view benches for the loveliest and longest curve of the bay. Then steps zigzag you through the intricate cascade of jammed-together cottages. You gravitate to the centre, what's known as 'the cockpit'. Sit on a bench for commanding views of sea, sand and cliffs over the lifeboat shed and slipway. Take a few minutes to check out the alleys behind The Royal Oak, and a quarter an hour or more for the exploration the other way, towards the cottages perched on the northern sea wall.
The final, and most exposed of these cottages is unique, being the last thatched one on this coast. It is a grace-and-favour residence of the Marquis of Normanby and was once enjoyed by James Herriot.
Now to the beach. The tide was on the ebb, the sand was firm and wide. In 1682 all bar one of the village's houses slid into the waves. Take a last chance to see the fissured sea wall before it is rebuilt. After half a mile of sand you reach the sailing club and the route off the beach. By all means continue by the water for a while towards Kettleness Point at the end of the bay. Sand changes to polished shale sunk with pools, then the terrain turns to inhospitable rock. The high, crumbling cliffs offer no safe escape. Make it back to the sailing club before the tide cuts you off. I know from childhood experience that rescue, with everyone in Runswick Bay getting a grandstand view, is very embarrassing.
Our climb from the sailing club is safe but steep and slithery, chopped through tight, stunted scrub. It offersthe picturesque views most favoured by the painters of the Staithes Group and by many photographers since. Back on top you negotiate a mile and a half of quiet hinterland to Ellerby village, which has a tasty, but 'not a muddy-clothing', inn.
DIRECTIONS
When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.
From car park at top of hill, right to path downhill (bollards, by hotel). Fork left to steps at next bollards, by phone box to beach.
Turn up hill at corner of sailing club (by stream and fence) and clear path behind club and up eastern side of gorge.
At top of hill, stile and right, stay by fence until field end, cross to other side, stile, fieldgate and track to railway bridge.
Fieldgate and track up to farm, fieldgate and right (barn on your left), new stile/fieldgate into field.(Note position of Northfields Farm from here as footpath uphill after crossing stream was not reinstated in sown field but way is marked with three white posts about two and a half feet feet high. Do not try to walk round edge because field boundaries to south have gone.) Down hill through grass field (ignore stile on left), stile/fieldgate and 1 o'clock down through gorse to bridge.
Straight on uphill via white posts. Stile over fieldgate and right to Coverdale Lane, pass farm, right-hand bend, 25 yards, footbridge and stile on left (signed) to path. Footbridge/stile and 1 o'clock across field corner to stile by gateway and keep by hedge on right.
6. Cross main road (A174) to Ellerby, right, cross main road again and road (some verge) back to Runswick.
FACT FILE
Distance: Four miles.
Time: Two hours.
Start: Runswick Bay Bank Top.
Right of way: The whole route is along public rights of way.
Date walked: March 6, 1999.
Road route: Runswick Bay is on the A174 north of Whitby.
Car parking: Free car park at top of hill.
Lavatories: Car park and down in Runswick Bay.
Refreshments: Hotel, inns, and caf at Runswick Bay. Inn at Ellerby open all day.
Tourist & public transport info: Whitby TIC 01947 602674
Map: The OS map is North York Moors eastern area, OL 27.
Terrain: Beach, paths and some road.
Footwear: Walking boots, stout shoes, or if dry, trainers.
Points of interest: Village, beach and views.
Difficulty: Moderate. One steepish climb.
Dogs: Suitable for dogs on leads or under close control.
Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418
Tide timetable: Evening Press for Whitby. Subtract five minutes for Runswick Bay.
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