Head for heights

For the first time I can remember, I set off from Kettlewell on the flat. A pleasant warm-up while the sun moved along Upper Wharfedale lighting up the west side of the valley and filling the still air with the sweet aroma of new-mown hay.

A low river led to a back lane, quiet but for brilliant blue geraniums and Scargill House, tranquil but for house martins. So many that the modern Christian Centre has 'nests' of crumpled cardboard jammed in window corners.

The climb begins, one thousand feet in three stages. First, long and quite steep, with views down the valley to Kilnsey Crags and, in a conifer band, the last of the day's shade. Second, a half-mile meander over a terrace of short, green grass, flecked with wild thyme, dotted with pansies, and scarred and paved with hot grey limestone.

A strong wind was coming down the mountain, balancing the sun. Just right for stage three, a short sharp ascent to our highest band of gritstone scree and wall.

I reached the lee of the wall for noon. Cool air filtered through it making an air-conditioned backrest. Out front was Wharfedale, baking. Sheep were torpid, and even with binoculars, there wasn't a walker moving anywhere. It was last Monday when six rare red kites were released, hopefully to a warm, not a torrid, Dales welcome.

An hour later the morning rush of wind had eased and I did the level mile north, with just wall to the left but the massive Great Whernside to the right. We're on its lower pasture.

You reach 'the cairns', twenty together, then are deflected west and back down by a dramatic v-shaped side valley. There's a detour to a CSS Site enclosing Rain Pot Hole. This is the shape of a bucket, the size of a church, and probably caused a cavern collapse. It's home to a few clinging ash, two nests, four fine large crows, orange and black flying beetles, and with its scree-filled depths, is a haven for rabbits.

I soaked my hat in Rain Slack Well and wound on down. One last bend and you see the stone roofs of Kettlewell and a few minutes later are walking the streamside streets.

At the riverbank car park, under the bridge, I soaked my feet in the Wharfe.

DIRECTIONS

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

1.Bridge by car parks, steps to riverside path (signed Layers Lane), three wall stiles, two squeezers and gateway.

2. Wallstile and left to walled path, right to road.

3. Stile/fieldgate on left and track uphill (signed Dalesway). Stile/fieldgate, stile/gateway, stile/fieldgate out of wood and left-hand track at 11 o'clock uphill (signed).

4. Fieldgate, 50 yards, track swings left uphill, 300 yards, and at rocky area public right of way leaves track by wall on left, crossing field to but not through wooden fieldgate, 100 yards by wall on right, 1 o'clock back across field (pass limestone pavement on right), rejoin track, look for stile/old gateway out of field at 1 o'clock from here, track up to it.

5. Straight on then clear path zigzags through scree area up to wall.

6. Ladderstile/fieldgate and left by wall. Pass wooden fieldgate and sheepfold on left, cairns on right.

7. Downhill. Ladderstile/fieldgate/fingerpost on left and track waymarked with short posts to stile/fieldgate at 11 o'clock.

8. Detour (11 o'clock) to Rain Pot Hole (see CSS plaque). Return to No. 8. One o'clock downhill on grassy track (fingerpost 'turf road').

9. Gateway and right to walled track, fieldgate, right fork at bend, fieldgate and right, fieldgate (ignore left fork just before this gate), fieldgate, track then road back to Kettlewell.

FACT FILE

Distance: Six miles.

Time: Three hours.

Start: Kettlewell. Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way and a permissive path to Rain Pot Hole.

Date walked: Monday July 12.

Road route: Kettlewell is on the B6160 north of Grassington.

Parking: Car park in field by bridge, £1.50. Official car park, £2 weekdays, £3.50 weekends.

Lavatories: Kettlewell.

Refreshments: Cafs and two pubs.

Tourist & public transport info: Grassington TIC 01756 752774

Map: Based on Outdoor Leisure 30, Yorkshire Dales Northern and Central areas.

Terrain: Steepish climbs and descent.

Footwear: Walking boots.

Points of interest: Views, Great Whernside, Rain Pot Hole.

Difficulty: Moderate - tricky in poor visibility.

Dogs: Suitable for dogs but keep on leads or under close control.

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418.

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.

PICTURE:Striding out in Upper Wharfedale

Click here to view a map of the walk