Routes are showing

With a late summer heatwave forecast, I packed a tent and headed off, expecting upper Swaledale to be post-August quiet. Muker village was heaving: I'd hit show day.

I hurried on the few miles to Keld, erected my tent by the River Swale, and set off 'travelling to the North Country Fair'. Spirits were jacked higher by a twist of climb past fine waterfalls, and then comes the long run-in to Muker.

The wide track follows the river, marquees were notched in the far end of the dramatic valley, and from a couple of miles away floated intermittent disjointed phrases from the show's PA system - '...Ken Roberts... Kendal...'.

I lengthened my stride, admired the buzzards, and closed on the show. Half a mile away, with meadows to do, the compere announced the imminent start of the mixed (sexes) junior and senior fell races, with a bonus prize of £100 for a record time.

I arrived. The Muker Silver Band struck up. The runners set off.

Stephen Hawkins took the lead and ran up the vertical fell with quick tiny steps, first to the top in six minutes. The rest of the field stretched out, some almost grinding to a halt. I felt inadequate.

Hawkins bounded back down with huge strides, finishing in ten minutes 56 seconds, beating the record by ten seconds. Awesome, who needs a sheep dog? I'd missed the sheep, though the winning decorated hay bale was disguised as such.

Fortified by tea and fudge, I learned about the River Swale Regeneration Project, and had an interesting, if taut, conversation with a woman in the English Nature tent about the SSSIs and SPAs that are redefining our Parks.

The return starts as a grassy riverside amble. The river was very low but rises in minutes in heavy rain, something to do with draining from the old lead mines. Further on, the map shows us next to the river, but is deceptive as we climb into wood. We join the Pennine Way, and there's a fingerposted and craggy detour to more falls.

Back at the tent, and I'd forgotten my stove. No chance of nosh in showday Muker, instead the four miles of winding, climbing road to Tan Hill Inn - at 1,732 feet the highest in England - for supper with a frontier feel a mile from the borderline.

DIRECTIONS

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

1. Track opposite car park entrance (after houses at bottom of village, signed), fork left (can be slippy to bridge, due to be restored), gated footbridge over River Swale.

2. Uphill on path and right to track by seat, bridge above waterfall and stay on track (by wall and fence while above River Swale) then wide track gently descends to open riverside (a few fieldgates).

3. Path to gated footbridge over River Swale forks right off track 150 yards before bridge, right after bridge.

4. Steps/gated squeezer (three-way fingerpost) and paved way to Muker (squeezers). Return by paved way to fingerpost, squeezer, path by river then across field to first barn you come to, and right, path through riverside fields (two squeezers, gates, gateways).

5. In stretch of fallen wall on left, squeezer and yellow blob as path leaves riverside then one o'clock for 100 yards, squeezer (100 yards before isolated ash tree), stepping stones. Follow path through fields then uphill (three gateways, gate, three squeezers). Becomes stony path after ruins on hillside and is joined by Pennine Way (fingerpost) then back to start. Ignore unofficial right forks. Steepish path to Kisdon Falls is signed (wooden fingerpost).

FACT FILE

Distance: Five and a half miles plus.

Time: Three hours. Start: Keld.

Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way.

Date walked: September 1.

Road route: Keld is west of Reeth on the B6270.

Parking: Park Lodge car park, £1 long stay.

Lavatories: Keld.

Refreshments: Park Lodge tea shop open till end of September, then half term. Pub and tea rooms at Muker.

Tourist & public transport info: Reeth TIC 01748 884059

Map: Based on OS Outdoor Leisure 30, Yorkshire Dales Northern and Central areas.

Terrain: Tracks and paths, two easy/moderate climbs.

Footwear: Walking boots.

Points of interest: Swaledale, waterfalls, birds of prey.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Dogs: Suitable for dogs on leads or under close control.

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418.

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.

PICTURE:Gurgling waterfall just outside Keld

Click here to view a map of the walk