Up hill, down Swale

I had completed my second consecutive walk in Swaledale (last week) in double-quick time.

There's a refreshing lack of 'problems' - uncertainty and obstruction - in this part of the world. I don't know why, perhaps partly the nature of the terrain, maybe partly the attitude of the landowners and Parks' Rangers.

Whatever, with time to kill, weather clement, and feeling still up for it, I did another walk that day, making three in total in Swaledale.

While you've been stretching your legs exploring this great valley, my feet have been up - I had already done it. I had simply moved a few miles down the dale to the next pretty little village, Gunnerside.

The classic and serious walk from here is north up the leadmine-ravaged Gunnerside Gill, a route I did for the Evening Press in October 1997. Today's is very different, a nice main-valley, evening stroll done in the fading light.

However there is a sharp, short, climb for starters and woods with dusky sloes. A kestrel commanded the long valley views, rabbits scampered unconcerned.

The River Swale glistened, faraway clouds settled into Upper Swaledale, patches of evening glow lit the meadows of Gunnerside Bottoms and threw the stone walls into hard relief.

Tiny vivid goldcrests flurried about thistles, the cool descended, and I took the direct descent to the valley floor.

After some road we peel off with the Swale for a good riverside path. I sat and watched the trout and dippers taking supper, communed with a toad, and decided on a super-serene entry into Gunnerside which entails one hundred level and straight steps across meadow, squeezer to squeezer, admiring barn. Repeated ten times.

DIRECTIONS

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

1. From village shop, bridge, pub, terrace on left then fieldgate to lane on left (signed dead-end road), uphill.

2. Immediately after house on bend, path on right into trees, 200 yards (when stream on left), path curves away from wall and uphill, cross ford (in trees, stream bed was dry) and uphill.

3. Below houses and ruin, where walls open out in reedy area, step stile in right-hand wall (20 yards below fieldgate), into field and path near wall on right. Contour, squeezer, squeezer, wall stile, squeezer, then path through scrub to wood (new waymarks with walker on). Keep up by fence on left then wall on left until it turns uphill, then approximately contour through wood (twisty up/down path).

4. Exit wood, path through bracken, squeezer, gateway, 11 o'clock, squeezer, gated squeezer, 11 o'clock, fieldgate, 11 o'clock up to concrete block/stone barns.

5. At barns right downhill to fieldgate by barn (road visible below), zigzag to 25 yards below barn, clear path at 2 o'clock through scrub/trees.

6. Squeezer and right to road (some verge/path on left). After riverbank protection works (concrete), 20 yards then path by riverside.

7. Stile and 28 steps, stile by road and immediately fieldgate on left, track downhill and path across meadows (ten squeezers).

FACT FILE

Distance: Three miles.

Time: One and a half to two hours.

Start: Gunnerside.

Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way.

Date walked: September 2.

Road route: Gunnerside is west of Reeth on the B6270.

Parking: Roadside in Gunnerside.

Lavatories: Gunnerside.

Refreshments: Pub and village shop.

Tourist and public transport info: Reeth TIC 01748 884059.

Map: Based on OS Outdoor Leisure 30, Yorkshire Dales Northern and Central areas.

Terrain: Track and paths, one climb.

Footwear: Walking boots.

Points of interest: Views, meadows, River Swale.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Dogs: Suitable for dogs but keep on leads or under close control.

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.

PICTURE:Swaledale over Gunnerside