George Wilkinson heads for the hinterland and Hunmanby

Where the north Wolds curve to the sea, at Filey at Bridlington, you think paddling rather than walking. This is my first visit to the hinterland here and it's smashing. We start in Hunmanby. I started in one of the two pubs opposite the church, and baked for a while in the sunshine.

The opening half mile was a grind out of town, to reach a fine, straight and level track, the Centenary Way, bright but very exposed, and bracing in a strong sou'wester.

I strode on forever, further into the big sky emptiness. Back end colours were lovely, the chalky soil hazed with emergent crops or stubble. Off to the west, the perfect smooth arcs of Wolds valley.

Abruptly we dive into a valley, a good one. The Romans must have rated it as they camped in Camp Dale. Moreover it is open access, so you can choose a sheltered sandwich stop on the snug semi-scrub slopes and dine on history. I'm the Wolds' worst at reading these obscure ancient settlement shapes, but there was plenty more of interest; butterflies, various fungi in abundance, and very stubby ground-hugging late-flowering dandelion types. Further on, the snap and crack of nervous pigeons in the beeches. No other walkers, surprising for the Wolds Way on a weekend.

We leave Camp Dale via Stocking Dale and pass a farm where there's heavy metal hedging - scrap cars wedged in, accumulating nose-to-tail. Farmers as custodians of the countryside? Sometimes you wonder.

There's still a long way to go, more track and then, closing on the coast, views. In front, a distant Lego-land seaside border of caravans, to the west, headlands, one surmounted by Scarborough Castle. To the east, the sheer cliffs of Flamborough Head.

At Muston village, the Wolds Way leaves for the sea, we trudge through the village and then take a last track back to Hunmanby.

The finish is like the start, dull, the rest worth it. I sat outside the pub again, tea this time, and noticed the All Saints' church board. The homily read '... all you who are weary...'. Eight miles indeed, but good going, it felt like five.

DIRECTIONS

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

1. Leave Hunmanby via Church Hill, uphill (Flixton/Malton road), ignore side roads.

2. Track on left (signed, Windmill House).

3. At farm, pass house on right, track kinks right then left by two barns then straight on between fields.

4. Right at tracks T-junction downhill into valley (waymarks). When track ends, fieldedge path by wire fence to right.

5. Stile into open access area. Option - explore Camp Dale on left. Stile/fieldgate out (in Stocking Dale), track through woods, fieldedge, swings right in shelterbelt. Cross road at farm to track.

6. Look out for gap in hedge on right and Wolds Way sign (just before telegraph wires) then ten o'clock across field for 200 yards to hedge corner and stile, downhill by hedge to left (two stiles/fieldgates, odd stile).

7. Stile in hedge on left and right to road (muddy verge), through village then Bridlington road (pavement).

8. At roundabout, fieldgate to track on right (signs and waymarks, four stiles/fieldgates). At field, 11 o'clock to left of farm (path was not reinstated), stile (waymark), track to Hunmanby.

FACT FILE

Distance: Eight miles.

Time: Three hours.

Start: Hunmanby.

Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way.

Date walked: October 2, 1999.

Road route: Hunmanby is three miles south-west of Filey off the A165 and the A1039.

Car parking: Small parking area opposite church and roadside.

Lavatories: Hunmanby.

Refreshments: Pubs and caf.

Tourist and public transport information: Scarborough TIC 01723 373333 or Filey TIC (weekends only in winter) 01723 512204

Map: Based on OS Pathfinder 645, Hunmanby.

Terrain: Mostly all-weather gentle track.

Footwear: Walking boots.

Points of interest: Open access area at Stocking Dale and Camp Dale, views.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Dogs: Suitable for dogs but keep on leads or under close control.

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418. Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.

PICTURE:A breathtaking view along the route from Hunmanby

No map available at present