George Wilkinson heads out from Kildale to take in some breathtaking views
Don't look at today's map and be put off by the opening mile of tarmac. It's signed 'Baysdale Farm, dead-end, and Cleveland Way' and is as lovely a car-quiet winter-warm-up as you could want. The rewards for each of the contours on the 500-foot climb are many.
Long views west to the Stokesley Plain, a pincer formation of the blue Cleveland Hills, and faraway snowy peaks.
I broke the climb for an ID stop with a local to work out the course of the River Leven via the villages and towns that it connects. To the north, the double act of Captain Cook's Monument and Roseberry Topping make a first sequenced appearance.
At 1,100 feet, as high as we go, we gain views south and east deep into the moors, the nearest of which, Warren Moor, is the source of the River Leven.
Next we off-road and descend into Baysdale (sometimes Basedale, either way meaning a cowshed valley). Here is a house called Baysdale Abbey with date-stones 1633, 1812 and 1818, it's on the site of a 13th-century Cistercian nunnery. Pevsner describes the position as 'enviably secluded', which it certainly is and a recently-appointed bridleway allows us through this seclusion by beck and alders.
We are halfway round a route that would be worth it even if the rest was in a tunnel. Far from, it improves. Baysdale gets more secluded, more lovely, as we leave the beck and take a peaty path in heather up and over Kildale Moor. Then we look down into the very interesting Leven Valley.
Through it runs the river, barely born from a dozen springs. Isolated stands a stylish tower and unusual long straight lines divide the land into large rectangles. These lines are 18th-century drains, experimental, expensive, pioneering work much studied in their day. Intake fields with a vengeance, nowadays super pastures to walk as you head down to the tower and make the highest legal crossing of the River Leven.
The tower was part of an ironstone mine and now is photogenic. Tall, square section, tapered, cross-banded brick, with a flared stone top with 20 or so resident pigeons. Bear in mind, if armed with a camera, that the pigeons explode before you get within shotgun range.
The area is good for birds. Many species were taking communal mud baths in seepages on the drainage lines. A hundred finch types looked like pale oversized cones in half a dozen larch trees.
We climb to the valley's farmhouse, a good one, and descend quickly through woods to Kildale.
After Baysdale virtually anywhere is relatively busy but Kildale, though well connected, is very nice. Perhaps more energetic in the past - iron-age, Vikings, Romans, and nuns etc, with industries of jet, ironstone, agriculture and hunting.
Last but not least, the Glebe Tearooms, where 'muddy boots are welcome', for a much-appreciated cream tea.
DIRECTIONS
When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.
Directions
When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.
1 Along road towards Stokesley from Kildale village (verge), first left to open moorland lane (signed Cleveland Way, cul-de-sac,
Baysdale Farm etc, cattlegrid/gate).
2 At second cattlegrid/gate, 10 o'clock downhill on moorland path (bridleway sign), gate, gate, right at corner of field, 50 yards, left to road.
3 Over bridge, track, left in farmyard between barns, bridge and left to track by beck (fieldgates).
4 At barn, fieldgate on left, cross Baysdale Beck, path ziz-zags uphill through field (via barn) towards, but not to, chimney-shaped cairn.
5 Gate and right to moorland path and stay by wall to right. At barn, left uphill (signed). Fieldgate on moor, path downhill, gate into field, fieldgate, fieldgate, bridge over River Leven, track uphill.
6 Left at track junction after house, join road, left at T-junction and back to Kildale (verge and pavement).
FACT FILE
Distance: Five and a half miles.
Time: Two to three hours.
Start: Kildale.
Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way.
Date walked: Sunday, January 16, 2000.
Road route: Kildale is between Stokesley and Castleton.
Car parking: Mainly verge west of village.
Lavatories: None.
Refreshments: Tearooms and village store.
Tourist and public transport information: The Moors Centre, Danby Tel: 01287 660450.
Map: Based on Outdoor Leisure 26, North York Moors western area.
Terrain: Long but comfortable tarmac climb, valley, moor.
Footwear: Walking boots.
Points of interest: River Leven, Baysdale, many good historical reminders, views.
Difficulty: Moderate.
Dogs: Suitable for dogs but keep on leads or under close control.
Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418
Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. Every effort is made to provide accurate information, but walkers set out at their own risk.
PICTURE:Embark on this walk...and views like this will be your reward
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