GEORGE WILKINSON follows the tourist trail into the Dales
How Stean Gorge is a tourist trap but doesn't open till ten, so I left its pleasures till last, and started with a little cobbled climb up the valley side. For a mile our path contours through a string of farms with pastures separated by squeezers and gives a continuous view of Upper Nidderdale.
Actually the best view around here is from Middlesmoor churchyard which you can see on its promontory in the middle of the main valley about half a mile away.
Middlesmoor looks good, but closer to the route the farms await their spring clean (plastic and polythene typically the trouble) and there are caravans.
These were at the start, and, as is usual, don't improve at a distance, visually damaging a larger landscape.
That was the first mile. The rest from the hamlet of Stean is lovely now we've moved well into the How Stean Beck side valley, paralleling its hidden water until you dip down to cross.
The crossing makes a good suntrap sandwich stop. I watched the beck eddy under the alders, tree creepers scuttled up mossy trunks and yellow grey wagtails flitted from boulder to boulder.
Rather than flit, I lurched from rock to rock to get across with dry socks for the short sharp climb to High Riggs. This is an alternative sandwich stop and once a beautiful farmstead, now losing its heavy stone tiles to gravity and decay.
After a few minutes watching a male kestrel preen, and admiring chocolate brown sheep with prim white faces, I set off down the beck.
It gets better and better, the water cutting deeper into the curved and hollowed rock, with slabby undercuts and terraced waterfalls. Also limekilns, an 1832 bridge, garlic, and a big tipped-over larch tree.
Back at the start again it was noisy, with starlings, fieldfares, and flocks of young children. The latter here to don the free helmet, see the best of the gorge, which is eighty foot deep with stippled smooth pale rock, and here in 'Little Switzerland' there's also the fun of a cave, so bring a good torch.
DIRECTIONS
When in doubt look at the
map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.
When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.
From parking area, left to road, bridge and left to farm drive, 100 yards, right between barns and fork right to track uphill, 's' bend and pass barn on right.
Fieldgate on right immediately after house/converted barn then contour - gateway, gateway, gated squeezer by garden, left into yard, fieldgate out on right and down bank to footbridge over Whit Beck, steps, gate into field, one o'clock up bank and by wall to right continuing to contour. Squeezer by barns, footbridge, wall stile, gate and straight through yard and head for Stean (3 squeezers and footbridge).
Left to lane, first right, track to Stean Farm and through yard, ignore left fork and stay on track (cattlegrids/fieldgates).
At fieldgate, after drive down to houses on right, (ignore footpath diversion sign) do not go through fieldgate, leave track and turn left uphill (wall to your right), gateway, barn, 25 yards, right to squeezer, fieldgate.
Pass barn (on your right), 150 yards, fieldgate on right then left across corner of field to stile/fieldgate and one o'clock downhill - grassy track down bank (not stile on right to 'bridge') to ford stream (get over wire fence where wrapped in plastic with boulder to stand on).
Left by stream, 25 yards, right uphill (by gully to your left), gate, pass High Riggs (ruin) - for viewpoint only, squeezer on left and through yard.7 Right to track downhill (just before Low Riggs farm the public officially crosses the field but no stile at fence by 'bridge'), into Low Riggs farmyard and fork right in front of house, fieldgate into field and downhill across fields (two fieldgates).8 Stone bridge over stream. Where field narrows, fork left to path inclining up hillside, ignore stiles on left, stile into wood above beck and path downhill back to rejoin beckside. Stay to left of wire fenced portion of beckside (with gate), ladderstile, gate on right (signed Nidderdale Way) and steps to footbridge over How Stean Beck, squeezer, squeezer and 1 o'clock, left to lane.
FACT FILE
Distance: Four and a half miles.
Time: Three hours.
Start: Car park by How Stean Beck.
Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way.
Date walked: Saturday, March 25 2000.
Road route: To Lofthouse which is six miles northwest of Pateley Bridge.
Car parking: Free car park.
Lavatories: At How Stean Gorge for patrons.
Refreshments: Caf/restaurant at How Stean Gorge. Pub at Lofthouse.
Tourist and public transport information: Harrogate TIC 01423 537300
Map: Based on OS Explorer 26, Nidderdale or OS Outdoor Leisure 30, Yorkshire Dales Northern and Central areas.
Terrain: Lower slopes of Nidderdale side valley.
Footwear: Walking boots.
Points of interest: Becks, birds and How Stean Gorge (optional, Adults £2.50, senior citizens £2, child £1.50). Torch deposit £10, hire £2.
Difficulty: Moderate but there is a beck to ford.
Dogs: Suitable for dogs but keep on leads or under close control.
Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418
Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. Every effort is made to provide accurate information, but walkers set out at their own risk.
PICTURE:Views of Nidderdale on a day trip to How Stean Gorge
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