George Wilkinson enjoys pastures new in Wensleydale
Today's Wensleydale walk is brand new, a generous gift from the Bolton estate. I left Bolton Castle for later and took the pastures to the pretty village of Redmire where there are two useful-looking pubs, but it was much too early for beer, and too chilly to 'cast a clout' despite the may (blackthorn) being out.
You'll be among the first to do this route, and a little bit of pioneer spirit is required as there's a stile missing, nicely minimalist bridges - a plank, a girder - and the national park hasn't put signs up yet.
However you'll find it a pleasant way down, and then lovely by the River Ure.
Straight away you get the Redmire Force waterfall, a series of cascades across the wide flow. Though not in the same league as the famous Aysgarth Falls a few miles upriver, they rival them for their setting and I had them all to myself. Just lay back against a tree among the wood anemones and the bluebells (some out already), with the roar of the cascading water, the antics of a dipper and the calm cruising of a grey heron.
These south slopes of the riverbank are a sun-trap; orchids are out as well.
I dragged myself away from the falls thinking anti-climax now. Far from it. After alders and thorns with exposed roots like mangroves, we gain a ridge, a most interesting and sinuous land shape, and pass through perhaps the prettiest part, a large area of coppiced hazel where the silver shafts sprout from stools in a lawn of dog's mercury.
Our ridge continues as convoluted pasture with long views west up the river, then we take Watery Lane, a track north. This lives up to its name for a hundred yards where it runs with crystal spring water, then we get dry track, a meadow or two, and the final climb back, all the way under the intimidating command of the castle.
It's the real thing, the castle 'a climax of English military architecture', and will not disappoint. Take note though, it's a tough building so don't take off all your warm clothing because as you make your way up the five levels via an endless spiral staircase it can get windy.
By the time I got to the top with vertigo views in all directions the shelter or the riverside was but a memory. Moreover, while the walls are nine-feet thick, only part of the castle is roofed, so exploration of dungeons and so on can be a chilly experience in more ways than one.
Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned here but even the intact chambers are an advert for double-glazing, and all this adds to the integrity of the experience. The caf is cosy.
DIRECTIONS
When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.
Left to lane from car park, through most of the village, fork right to track opposite old troughs on village green, 50 yards, track on right (signed), squeezer/fieldgate into field, 100 yards.
Squeezer on left and one o'clock three fields (squeezers), footbridge and left to path by disused railway line.
Footbridge, right into village, first right after Bolton Arms, pass Kings Arms, squeezer on right after Passwood House, across field.
Squeezer and right to road, 50 yards, wooden fieldgate on left into field. From here, if the 'permissive route' is waymarked, please follow. Field on right about 100 yards after spring (small barn in field on right and enter here if no stile in after 100 yards), cross to stile in wire fence, and follow Apedale Beck.
'Girder' bridge on right and path by and above River Ure. Once high above Ure, maintain height, ignoring side paths and tracks.
One-step stream and stile out of wood, one o'clock, stile, maintain height through fields (on ridge), footbridge over stream.
Gate by River Ure (opposite stepping stones across River Ure) and right uphill to narrow old track/path (permissive signs).
Right at T-junction of tracks (wet), fieldgate by farm to lane, footbridge and stile on left at ford, ten yards, right (sign), path through fields (squeezers), dogleg across road to road up to Castle Bolton.
FACT FILE
Distance: Nearly five miles.
Time: Two to three hours.
Start: Castle Bolton.
Right of way: The complete route is along public rights of way and permissive paths.
Date walked: Friday, April 21.
Road route: About four miles west of Leyburn. North of the A684.
Car parking: Car park £2.
Lavatories: Car park.
Refreshments: Bolton Castle Tearooms. Two pubs at Redmire.
Tourist and public transport information: Leyburn TIC 01969 623069.
Map: based on OS Outdoor Leisure 30 Yorkshire Dales northern and central areas.
Terrain: Parts quite rough and slithery by the River Ure. Some steep drops.
Footwear: Walking boots.
Points of interest: Bolton Castle (adults £4, children and senior citizens £3, family ticket 2+2, £10, open daily March to November 10-5, ring for winter opening times 01969 623981). Good website www.boltoncastle.co.uk. Riverside and waterfalls via new permissive path.
Difficulty: Moderate.
Dogs: Suitable for dogs but keep on leads or under close control.
Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500418
NB: After very heavy rain as in November 1999, the route floods.
Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. Every effort is made to provide accurate information, but walkers set out at their own risk.
PICTURE:Bolton Castle: 'a climax of English military architecture'
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