Top Cliffs

I was reminded of Saltburn-by-the-Sea by a recently published book that listed its gill as one of the top 200 Wildlife Trust sites in the UK. Hazy memories were triggered because when I was knee-high my two grannies lived here.

So I drove into the faded little Victorian town, genteel or otherwise, parked for free (a by-law), fuelled up at the Signals Caf, wandered through the railway arches, passed the antique shops, down Diamond Street, and within a minute or two was on the front, looking out from the clifftops over the sea.

There are Teeside smokestacks but way to the north, here is lovely sand, a pier and a cliff tramway. The fun of the beach is for later and we swing down through the pretty Valley Gardens, over a miniature railway line and into the gill.

Saltburn Gill is ancient and undisturbed wooded stream valley, a Site Of Special Scientific Interest, sheltered, humid and rich, an assault on the senses. You'll be hit by the tang of garlic, the cacophony of bird song, and colour like turning the pages of a springtime book of slowers. There's the blue and white of bluebells and wood anemones, celandines and sedges, orchids, and especially good ferns. Glacial soils make for the good flowers, but also slithery paths, and a stick helps. Apparently mink live here and I've been told of otters which helpfully eat them.

After a mile or so you climb out to an open area with gorse the best I've seen for ages. Just when it looks like you are about to enter the village of Brotton, a steep path re-enters the wood and we have a beck to cross. One always hopes for a bridge, here there's a well used tree trunk, otherwise, after a wet week, it would have been boots off time.

The only messy section of the route heralds the none too pretty Hagg Farm. Thankfully it was soon back into the woods, then out again for a view of Saltburn over the rape, then back into the woods for the last time. I was fumigated with garlic by now and accelerated to the beach.

A sea fret made for water and sky all in grey. Surfers bobbed on the swell like seals. I walked under the pier and saw a sign announcing its imminent closure for repair. Sorry folks, bad timing. However you have the consolation of the 1884 Cliff Tramway. The alternative is an awful lot of steps, and at 50 pence this is an unmissable opportunity. There are another couple of similar constructions in the south, but I believe Saltburn's is the oldest water-powered one in the world. True or not it's a very steep but smooth ride.

DIRECTIONS

Through Railway Station via archway, cross road to Diamond Street, right to Marine Parade, follow the top road round.

Path on left into Valley Gardens (between disused stone buildings, opposite entrance to Dundas Street) and immediately right downhill, left at bench, left above stream, cross miniature railway line, over stream at cream/green wooden bridge and immediately left, ignore bridges on left, cross road at bend.

Path into valley (signed public footpath, info board nearby), footbridge over Saltburn Gill, stile. Footbridge over side stream.

Stile, stile and footbridge over side stream (ignore signed path on left and bridge on right). Path goes uphill on ridge to plateau. Stile.

Exit scrub, 20 yards, track by edge of wheat field for 100 yards then look out for narrow path on right by holly tree which doubles back downhill through wood.

Steps to ford stream (there is a handy fallen tree 50 yards upstream if ford impassable). From ford, 50 yards, right fork, 200 yards, fork left to track (by private sign), 100 yards, left off track - no obvious path but trees now clearly marked with yellow blobs. Path goes steeply uphill where you see rubbish, exiting to the right of a farmyard, by angling 1 o'clock up the slope from the last blob which faces directly uphill for 100 yards to a stile into a field.

Right of way is gateway on left immediately after farm and immediately right by hedge. (Gateway was quagmire so carried straight on by other side of hedge).

Stile and right to new path, immediately stile then stile on right into field, dip into valley, footbridge over stream, field-edge path.

Right to road, track on right at 's' bend (sign), gate into wood to path, 200 yards, left and downhill.

Footbridge and left to follow outward route. Cross car park to Lower Promenade, steps or Cliff Lift back to Marine Parade.

FACT FILE

Distance: Four and a half miles.

Time: Two and a half hours.

Start: Saltburn-by-the-Sea.

Right of Way: The complete route is along public rights of way.

Date walked: Friday, April 28, 2000.

Road route: Saltburn is five miles north-east of Guisborough.

Car parking: Free in town centre or £2 all day between May and September at Cat Nab car park by Direction No. 3.

Lavatories: Railway Station and car park.

Refreshments: Tearooms and pubs.

Tourist & Public Transport Information: Saltburn TIC 01287 622422.

Map: Based on OS Outdoor Leisure 26, North York Moors Western Area.

Terrain: Up and down woodland paths.

Footwear: Walking boots.

Points of interest: Nature Reserve, pier (closed till end Sept 2000), cliff tramway.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Dogs: Suitable for dogs but keep on leads or under close control.

Weather forecast: Evening Press and recorded forecast 0891 500 418.

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. Every effort is made to provide accurate information, but walkers set out at their own risk.