Toast the roast

The Jacobean Lodge Hotel, Plainville Lane, Wigginton

LIKE many others, I grew up with the traditional Sunday roast. Half-past one on the dot, after my dad had returned from the pub, the joint of meat would be ceremoniously carved.

A crisp home-made Yorkshire pudding, two if you were my dad, roast potatoes, carrots, runner beans and spouts would be spooned on to the plate together with lashings of Bisto. And if it was a pork roast we'd get a huge slab of delicious crackling and a dollop of apple sauce.

Sunday lunch was an institution, but times they have a changed and, like many 21st century households, the Sunday roast at home is now a rarity. It is still enjoyed however, but in the comfort of the pub. No mess and no washing up!

When my parents came to visit, we decided to join the throngs for a traditional Sunday lunch. And there's nowhere more traditional than the Jacobean Lodge Hotel, tucked off Plainville Lane between Wigginton and Shipton-by-Beningbrough.

Set in one-and-a-half acres of well-maintained and colourful gardens, the former 17th century farmhouse has bags of character - beams, brasses and wood panelled walls.

Spreadeagled on the pub floor was a large, contented ginger cat called Tony, who had a remarkable resemblance to that saggy old Bagpuss! Apparently, Tony belonged to a neighbour, but because he loved the pub so much he hadn't been home for months.

After ordering our drinks from the friendly bar staff, were we shown to our table in the light and airy dining room in front of the French windows which overlooked the gardens.

The three-course Sunday lunch costs £9.95 (starters, £1.95; main, including carvery, £5.95; and desserts, £2.95). Pretty good value.

My parents declined starters, but I went for an old favourite, deep fried Camembert and Brie with cranberry sauce - two crispy triangles of melted cheese in breadcrumbs, which were tasty. One or two more, however, would have been nice. My wife, Jayne, enjoyed her two vegetable spring rolls which were drizzled in a tangy sweet and sour sauce.

Main courses included roast beef, lamb and pork from the carvery, steak and kidney pie, poached chicken with mushroom and asparagus sauce and vegetable lasagne. I went for the roast pork - three fair-sized slices carved before my eyes by the chef. The meat was tasty and tender, but where was the crackling?

Vegetables on offer were roast and boiled potatoes, carrots and broccoli, and as it was self service you could pile your plate with as much as possible.

Jayne didn't fancy the sole vegetarian offering, deciding instead to have a plate of vegetables and TWO Yorkshire puddings with gravy. Although she didn't have the meat, the price was surprisingly the same.

My dad, a steak and kidney pie connoisseur, was impressed with his dish, which consisted of thick chunks of beef in a sea of gravy, covered with a layer of flaky pastry. My mum was delighted with her chicken. The meat, she said, melted in the mouth.

The dessert menu looked impressive. Dishes ranged from old English rice pudding and strawberry cheesecake to passion cake and tiramisu.

I went for raspberry roulade, which was very tasty, but the portion was rather small.

My mum was a tad disappointed with her picked fruit sherry trifle, which she said was too watery.

All in all however, it was an enjoyable meal. Good food, good value and wonderful surroundings We left as happy and contented as Tony the cat, still lying flat out in front of the bar as we left.