WHEN it comes to Malham, the busiest of Dales destinations, timing is crucial. "Like a zoo in the hols" said the shopkeeper, "busier than Blackpool on a Bank Holiday." At the car park a schoolboy sidled up with an eco-questionnaire, "Were cars a problem...?"

I had come for two days, three walks worth, found the edge of town campsite, put up the orange tent, feeling content with the soft grass, hillside views, stream, milk promised in the morning, and a family of cheeky scrounging ducks. Next door is the National Trust's Town Head Barn, a unique opportunity and a puzzle for its shaped wall hole which the Trust's lady thought might be for trysts.

Straight away off to the Cove and what a majestic sight as you approach and the huge wraparound limestone wall looms higher and higher. A stream issues from the base of the Cove, wagtails hopped from rock to rock, a climber dangled from a rope, and jackdaws wheeled in the airspace.

Now 400 steps, though ergonomic ones, to the top. And the view is terrific, over Malham to blue hills afar. And the top itself is magic, a flow of fissured limestone pavement with very deep grikes, so the beer cans are out of sight. We amble round and down, the rock shapes are wonderful and wild thyme was flowering on the hot pasture.

I have mapped out a easy stroll to the bottom of Gordale Scar. Next week we will be at the top of this. Will we go up it? Answer no. Why? Well, the National Parks describe it on their warning boards as a 'steep and difficult ascent' (so descent more difficult) and there is erosion. Indeed the 20ft scramble between the twin waterfalls does look spooky, flanked by towering overhangs.

But the ascent doesn't rate 'moderate' in 'Yorkshire Limestone', the rock-climbers' guide, in fact it doesn't rate a mention. Nevertheless this is my 199th walk for the Evening Press and I want to make 200 sound in limb and employment, therefore fatalities are right out. Do have a look, it's an awesome setting, and watch the couples argue about whether to brave it - generally uncertain macho-males versus quite sure females.

Fifteen minutes later we leave open ground for lovely wooded valley. Here you will find the exquisitely pretty Janet Foss waterfall, where once shepherds washed their sheep, 'fortified by strong drink', and Janet a 'local fairy' lived in a cave beside the waterfall pool. The rest is gravel path through meadows and over twin ladder stiles set side by side for the queues. Remember timing, start late or start early.