Absinthe is a powerful intoxicant. One shot is said to be the equivalent of four measures of vodka. It contains an ingredient that is similar in effect to cannabis; Vincent Van Gogh cut his ear off while apparently under its influence. And it is now on sale at a York pub.
Fibbers in Stonebow House is the first pub in the city to stock Absinthe. Its decision has come under fire from the Licensed Victuallers' Association.
The LVA is right to be concerned. This is clearly no ordinary drink, either in appearance - it is green - or effect.
One of the most important roles of the LVA is self-regulation. If one licensed premises steps out of line, it can have far-reaching consequences for all other members. It clearly believes that the best way to deal with this issue is to make York an Absinthe-free zone once again.
The management at Fibbers now has the choice to decide whether to respond by withdrawing the spirit, or continuing to sell it.
There is no law against selling the spirit in Britain. It is illegal in other European countries, and New Labour has threatened to ban it, but ministers have yet to follow this through.
People have the right to drink it, and therefore Fibbers is within its rights to sell it.
Alcohol is a legal drug: the amount anyone drinks is limited only by an individual's choice and, if he is in a pub, the licensee's discretion.
On that point, staff at Fibbers will only serve two measures of the drink to any one person, a restriction that is not so much sensible as essential.
In Fibbers' favour, it has a reputation as an orderly house where trouble is not tolerated. And there have been no reports of Absinthe-fuelled disorder so far.
However, it is a bar favoured by many younger drinkers, attracted by the live music. That bestows an extra responsibility on Fibbers staff.
Absinthe is by no means the only alcoholic fad. At least it is not targeted at the young, unlike alcopops.
Meanwhile, the potentially treacherous cocktail of vodka and the non-alcoholic stimulant Red Bull has become very popular in York pubs, a trend that has yet to attract much public concern.
The line between social drinking and alcohol abuse is a thin one, whichever drink is involved. All those in the licensed trade must remain vigilant to the risks.
If Fibbers takes the LVA criticism seriously, and wishes to avoid further controversy, it might do well not to restock its Absinthe supplies.
see NEWS 'It's £6 a shot, twice the potency of other spirits and here in York.'
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