Food safety minister Jeff Rooker claims his new law on genetically modified food is an "innovation". But far from leading the way, his Government is playing catch-up on this issue.

So-called "Franken-food" would not have even made it onto the political agenda if it were not for the British press. The Government had been happy to keep its tacit agreements with the GM food industry out of the limelight. But thanks to some dogged investigative work by the newspapers, the public have been made fully aware of what is going on.

The revelations caused great disquiet. Yet still ministers were slow to react. Retailers, sensing customer disquiet, responded with greater urgency. Major chains, including Marks & Spencer and Sainsbury's, have already announced they will remove all GM ingredients from their own-brand products.

Belatedly, Mr Rooker has announced that every restaurant, caf and hot dog stall will be compelled to inform diners if their meal contains genetically modified soya or maize. It is an overdue, but nevertheless welcome, indication that the Government is taking public opinion seriously.

The debate about this new science will take years to develop. Advocates claim that GM crops could put an end to starvation. Opponents question the cost to our health and environment. Gene technology stands at the edge of our knowledge; it is a prospect which is at once exciting and fearful.

But consumers have not got time to sit back and assess the arguments. GM food is here now: we are faced with it on every trip to the supermarket and caf.

If we are to be allowed to make an informed choice about what our family eats, we need more information. Mr Rooker's law will go some way to help. But it contains obvious loopholes: in many cases, customers will only be made aware of GM ingredients if they ask; GM derivatives, such as soya oil, are not covered.

This means diners will still not be able to avoid the controversial ingredients. And there must be doubt as to how the law can be policed.

The British Retail Consortium, which represents 90 per cent of UK retailers, is right to say that Mr Rooker has not gone far enough. Its members are to adopt a policy of labelling all GM derivatives.

This should send a message to Tony Blair, who has made his support for the GM food industry explicit.

People are genuinely worried about this issue. They want to be given a choice about what they eat. And this new legislation will not be enough to placate their fears.

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