York is the North's "most compelling city" according to the latest edition of the Rough Guide to England.

But it is not all good news. It is also a city where "the streets are clogged by double-decker buses, costumed guides and carefully shepherded sightseers."

The latest in a series of Penguin travellers' handbooks - notorious for honest opinions rather than promotion of local tourism - has viewed most of the country in a better light since the last edition two years ago.

But York, despite being "probably the Tour Capital of Britain" with plenty of rail connections, lots of places to stay and a "reasonably healthy night life," does not escape without criticism.

"These days a more provincial air hangs over the city except in summer when York feels like a heritage site for the benefit of tourists. That said, no trip to this part of the country is complete without a visit to the city," says the book.

In particular, York falls short of praise when it comes to transport where "walking is the best way to acquaint yourself with the city, and often the only way to get from A to B."

According to the book, the city's ghost and historical walks and river cruises are "much more interesting" than the Guide Friday bus, which the author adds "the tourist offices all push."

Tourist chiefs in the city today welcomed the fact the Guide recognised York as 'the north's most compelling city'.

Patrick Thornber, of First Stop York which is aiming to promote the city to tourists, said: "I don't think anyone who was here for Ecofin in March would consider our city to be provincial. Indeed quality conferences are held in York all year round - this complements most of the attractions and places of interest in the city which are open nearly all year.

"Far from being a heritage site, many people choose to live and work in York because of its quality of life.

"The large number of visitors to the city is a testament to the beauty of York and the interest it inspires - we hope many more come as a result of our entry in the Guide."

Knaresborough is less fortunate however where "historic sites aside there is not much else to the town."

Harrogate and Ripon are places that "with time, you could profitably spend the night in".

But the guide's only essential day trip out of York is to Castle Howard.

The coastline has "tempting sands" and Robin Hood's Bay is "cute".

The guide says Scarborough has "all the traditional ingredients of a beach resort from kitsch amusement arcades and kiss-me-quick hats to the more refined pleasures of its tightly-knit old-town streets and a genteel round of quiet parks and gardens."

Whitby is recommended for a stopover, saying visitors will enjoy its fine sands, cobbled streets, Georgian buildings and maritime heritage.

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