Hut stuff

THERE it stood, like a giant truncated Toblerone bar, looking slightly ill at ease with its surroundings of rolling farmland. This was to be our home for the next two days.

It was with some trepidation that I had accepted an invitation for myself, my partner and three children to stay in one of the 12 wigwams that form the Pot-a-Doodle Do wigwam village in the far east corner of Northumberland, only a short stroll from the sea.

After all, my last camping venture had been in my teens with a bunch of mates when a flash flood ripped our canvas from its pegs and left us soaked and forlornly watching our soggy heaps of clothing drift into a quagmire.

But the wigwams are ideal for camping virgins and those like me who shudder at the thought of nights under the stars.

The sturdy wooden structures can see off a storm and inside there is a heater and fridge. I only had to do a couple of minutes of self-assembly with the beds, and the wigwam became a home.

Initially I blanched at the thought of getting all five of us in what is basically a hut, and I still reckon that four is a more realistic maximum number, but the huts do have a Tardis-like quality.

Ours was called Pocahontas, and it was reassuring to see that we were sleeping next to The Alamo.

As cars were unloaded in the afternoon sunshine, the structures began to form a community. There were ball games on the lawn, barbecues on patios and animated chatter among neighbours. The pantomime came later when we attempted some privacy while undressing for bed.

The wigwam village is owned by farmers Christine and John Whiteford and only opened in May. There is barely a booking left for this summer, such is their popularity, and they plan to stay open all year round after their early success.

The venture has been tagged on to the couple's working farm, restaurant, food shop and children's art centre and also features an excellent shower and toilet block furnished largely in pine and a kitchen with a small supply of pots, pans and other utensils for the thoroughly useless camper like me who forgets everything or prefers everything on a plate.

We started our break with the inevitable drive up the arterial A1, stopping off for lunch and a stroll around one of the National Trust's most enchanting properties, Cragside House, at Rothbury, near Morpeth.

This Victorian gem, crammed with gadgets, was the revolutionary home of Lord Armstrong and deserves its description as a wonder of its age. Outside, where Armstrong employed 150 gardeners to plant seven million plants and trees, there is so much more to enjoy along walks that take you through formal gardens, woodland, a pinetum and several other features. Make it a must on a list of things to do in Northumberland.

We spent the rest of the day at the wigwam village, which is outside Scremerston, taking in a walk to a nearby beach to catch the sunset before lighting one of the fire-holders next to the decking outside our front door. We doused the flames an hour later and, like the fire, went out like a light.

Day two was to be a day of castles. We started at Bamburgh, pausing to take in a view of Holy Island on the way. Whether viewed from the miles of golden beach beneath it or from the pretty namesake village on the other side, this is one of the most majestic castles you will ever see. Having previously toured the building, I was quite happy nestling in the sand dunes watching our children splashing in the sea with a backdrop like no other beach.

In the afternoon we took a rollercoaster road to the aptly-named Chillingham Castle, which has featured on several TV programmes because of its reputation as Britain's most haunted castle. Chillingham started life as a 12th century stronghold before being fortified in the 14th century, and although there have been additions over the centuries, it remains essentially medieval.

Its gruesome collection of torture instruments, which you are allowed to touch but not use, together with a claustrophobic dungeon, certainly make for good ghost stories, but outside all that is forgotten with a walk through the topiary garden and stroll along the largest herbaceous border in the north.

Day three started grimly. It had rained in the night, and under a grey sky we arrived at Houseteads Fort, one of the string of Roman Forts along Hadrian's Wall. Dozens of walkers traversing its length passed us by as we climbed the hillside against a biting wind to examine the ruins.

A posting here must have been the equivalent of a German soldier being sent to the Russian front in the Second World War. I wondered if the phrase "it's grim up north" might have had its origins among the Romans. It is easy to build a picture of what life was like here, and the children were fascinated with the latrine.

Feeling decidedly cold and in need of some serious pampering, we travelled the short distance to Matfen Hall country house hotel, where they know about these things.

David Hunter, the amiable manager, led us with pride on a short tour of the facilities, which include a magnificent golf course, and Versace spa with swimming pool alongside its beautiful rooms. The joining together of its newer facilities with the grand old hall has been done sympathetically, leaving guests to enjoy both the modern and ancient.

We took afternoon tea in the drawing room before the children let off some steam in the swimming pool while we adults chilled out in the spa.

In the evening, it was adults-only again for a quite sumptuous candlelit meal in the library and print room restaurant, which lasted more than three hours and was finished off with a suitably fine cigar.

For a special occasion, this hotel would take some beating. Over the past ten years the owners, Sir Hugh and Lady Brackett - along with a dedicated staff - have worked wonders in creating a four-star haven with a restaurant that now boasts two AA rosettes.

After a hearty breakfast and some goodbyes to other guests we had made friends with during our short stay, it was off to our final destination, the Alnwick Garden and Alnwick Castle. But that's a story for another day.

Head for Northumberland and enjoy the history, the beauty, the gardens and its uniqueness.

Fact file

For more information about Northumberland, visit

www.northumberland.gov.uk

Matfen Hall has a special offer in August for two nights dinner, bed and breakfast at £160 per person. Phone 01661 886500 or visit the website at www.matfenhall.com

Pot-a-Doodle Do Wigwam Village can be viewed at www.northumbrianwigwams.com

Prices are £11 or £15 a night for adults, depending on the time of year, with the charge for children at £6.50 to £7.50. Phone 01289 307107.

Updated: 16:32 Friday, July 29, 2005