I PRODUCED a bottle of port at a bonfire party last year. It's surprising how well this fortified wine goes down on November 5. I guess it's the warming properties of the liquid, which helps to keep off the evening chill.

Of the revellers who imbibed with me, all said they would only normally drink port at Christmas. I noted that none of them, however, refused a refill.

My mates made a very valid point. All of us tend to think of port as a Yuletide tipple but we should consider it as an option at other times. Why not drink it chilled during the summer for instance? It's a damn fine way to finish off a barbecue but don't go overboard on the amount of time you leave the bottle in the fridge, an hour or so will be fine.

For this purpose you could do much worse than investing in a bottle of Quinta do Noval 10 Year Old Tawny Port. With aromas of Asian spices, it is a woody and caramelised combo of coffee, raisins, orange peel, cinnamon and ginger that is long on the finish. It is also surprisingly moreish.

Portugal's Douro Valley will always be associated with port but the region produces some very drinkable reds as well. Often one of the major component grapes is touriga nacional, a low yielding variety frequently used in port production.

Duas Quintas Tinto 2002 is a blend of this and tinta roriz (the Portugese name for tempranillo). The result is a full, prickly wine with blackberry fruit, vanilla, hints of aniseed and lots of mouth-filling tannins. It's very good but definitely needs food.

Another Douro wine, Villa de Regia Tinto 2002 is much more approachable, I'd even describe it as mellow. It is medium bodied with slightly sweet, red fruit flavours of rhubarb, strawberry and redcurrant. There's a nice amount of coconut oak too. Like the tawny port already mentioned this wine would be great chilled, during the summer months.

This week's featured ros, and the last for a while, has Portuguese connections but the roots of the vines are firmly planted in Spanish territory. I've always regarded Mateus as a Portuguese producer but Mateus Tempranillo Ros 2004 is made from Spanish grapes.

I approach all tastings of wine with an open mind but try as I may, I just have nothing favourable to report on this one. It is worse than the original Mateus I know and don't love. It is a sickly sweet wine for people who drink alcopops and like large plastic bags full of candyfloss.

It is decidedly lacking anything, save for a little floral fragrance. If you must indulge at least make the most of its reduced price at Morrisons from August 15. Don't worry if it's not your thing, there are 18 other Spanish wines on offer as well.

This week's wines:

Quinta do Noval 10 Year Old Tawny Port, £15.49 at Waitrose. 16/20

Duas Quintas Tinto 2002, £6.99 at Majestic. 16/20

Villa de Regia Tinto 2002, £4.99 at Asda. 15/20

Mateus Tempranillo Rose 2004, £3.99 from £4.99 at Morrisons (August 15 to September 11). 4/20

Updated: 09:45 Monday, August 15, 2005