AS EU trade commissioner Peter Mandelson today tabled proposals to European governments aimed at ending the "bra wars" with China, Tom Stirling found some traders could benefit from the international row.
MILLIONS of jumpers, trousers and bras are stranded in ports across Europe - and traders have predicted the pile-up could have a knock-on effect in our region.
Talk of price rises and stock shortages have the high street chains sunk in gloom, but business chiefs say York and towns across North Yorkshire could well benefit from the clothing crisis.
Stockpiles of Chinese clothes have built up in EU warehouses after emergency quotas were introduced following lobbying by countries with powerful textile industries, including Italy, France, Spain and Portugal.
The stranded garments include 48 million jumpers and pullovers, 17.5 million pairs of trousers, 4.6 million shirts and T-shirts - and 6.5million bras.
Industry experts say major retailers could struggle to find alternative, non-Chinese suppliers capable of meeting demand, leading to rising prices and possible stock shortages later this year.
Nick Brown, managing director of York department store Browns, said: "One of our particular strengths is lingerie, so we will be monitoring the situation very carefully.
"Our suppliers have assured us they think they will keep a continuity of supply, but it is a growth market and we want to make sure it stays that way.
"After all, life is difficult enough on the high street these days."
Furious national retailers have denounced the import curbs - dubbed the "bra wars" - but independent retailers in York have found a silver lining.
Gillian Cruddas, chief executive of York Tourism Bureau, said: "One of the ways we promote York as a shopping destination is by saying we do have big high street stores, but also smaller independent ones.
"If supply problems force the chains to put their prices up, but the independents in Stonegate and Shambles don't, York could be in an even stronger position, and we could benefit from this."
Market analysts have warned that Marks & Spencer, Next, Mothercare and JJB Sports - all of which have large branches in North Yorkshire - could be particularly badly hit.
Tom Knight, chief executive of sports retailer JJB Sports, said: "This will have a serious effect on my business and on any other high street business, the majority of whom are sourcing clothing from the Far East and China.
"It will push prices up. It is inevitable."
David Keens, Next's finance director, said: "There is a real possibility that prices will go up for customers. The longer that the Government takes to sort this out, the more likely it is that prices will rise."
But the high street chains' misery could have positive side effects for independent retailers.
Lucille Carter, owner of fashion store Tivoli, in Gowthorpe, Selby, said: "We first heard about the problem last weekend, but I imagine it will hit the bigger retail stores that buy clothes in massive quantities.
"I have asked my warehouses and they say they cannot foresee any problems for our supply.
"Of course I will be keeping an eye on the situation - and if I see a lot of good quality stock available I will buy it up, just in case."
Gavin Cook, who owns J18 in Minster Gates, York, said: "I know our suppliers will be monitoring what happens, but we buy our stock so far in advance that the stock we are buying now will be for next summer.
"That means it really won't make a difference to us - unless the blockade lasts well into next year.
"In fact, it could turn out to be a blessing in disguise for York's smaller stores, if it forces the big chains to put their prices up. We will just have to wait and see."
Len Cruddas, chief executive of York and North Yorkshire Chamber of Commerce, said: "If the chains have stock shortages there is definitely the opportunity for the small independents, and that is one of the strengths of York. We can't compete with Leeds or Manchester for Harvey Nic's and that sort of thing, but we can compete when it comes to the smaller stores.
"If the situation lasts until Christmas, shoppers may well think of the independents who wouldn't otherwise.
"Whatever happens, it's certainly a real mess, and it's a reminder of the risks involved in meddling with Free Trade. While governments might do it for good reasons, they aren't really protecting a large indigenous industry of the kind that simply no longer exists in our region."
Updated: 09:51 Monday, August 29, 2005
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