AN Odyssey is defined, in my dictionary, as "a series of wanderings" or "a long, adventurous journey". And, as foodies will know, that is precisely what chef Rick Stein has embarked upon for his latest TV series.

With his producer David Pritchard, he has been sailing the canals of southern France on a "voyage of food discovery" in a series that has been engaging, ravishing to look at and mouth-watering by turn.

The TV series may still be in mid-journey: but Rick himself is back in the UK promoting his accompanying BBC book. And next week sees him pitch up at Waterstone's in York for a book signing no true foodie will want to miss.

Like the TV series itself, this is a book suffused with the warm summer colours, flavours and fragrances of southern France.

In a delightful short introduction, illustrated with ravishing photography, Rick modestly describes the origins of the voyage. He and David Pritchard had suggested the idea of his 'food odyssey' to the BBC, he writes - and they asked for an outline.

Over lunch in a French restaurant near the BBC's offices in Bristol, David drew a map on a paper tablecloth. "He put in the canal system we were going to travel along: the Canal Lateral a la Garonne, the Canal du Midi and the Canal du Rhone a Marseille.

Then he drew pictures of various food areas - a rather rudimentary duck here with the comment 'foi gras country', and a sheep there, 'brebis cheese from these marsh sheep near Pouillac'....Then he spilt a little red wine on it, borrowed a fag and made a couple of cigarette burns, folded the tablecloth and posted it to the boss at the BBC."

As you read, you can almost hear the rich French names of places and foods rolling off the chef's tongue - and that joy in the French landscape and French cuisine fills the book like a late-afternoon sun. The book proper is divided into six sections - soups and starters; light lunches; fish and shellfish; poultry and game; meat and offal; and desserts.

Each recipe - Rabbit with Agen prunes and polenta, anyone? Or how about griddled spatchcock quail with a red wine vinegar, shallot and mustard dressing? - is sumptuously illustrated. There are also a few surprises along the way. One of the most mouthwatering recipes is the Provencal fish pasta with fennel seeds, anchovies, tomatoes and olive oil.

"The idea that pasta was Italian food would be greeted with some surprise in Provence," Rick notes. "It is impossible to say where pasta cooking stops or starts - but it's not on the border with Italy."

A big, beautiful book that will be a journey of discovery whether or not you ever get around to trying any of the recipes.

Rick Stein will be at Waterstone's in High Ousegate, York, at 4.30pm on Tuesday September 27, to sign copies of his book. No ticket required.

Updated: 09:40 Saturday, September 24, 2005