Skinningrove is not like Runswick, Staithes or Robin Hood's Bay. Seaside it may be, but despite the fishing cobbles it's not pretty with pantiles or oozing ice-cream and romantic history, though nowadays there is a mining museum.

The place is very interesting,

stylish even, if not elegant, a characterful survivor of its ironstone heyday, the low terraces of miners houses, the precipitous shanty towns of pigeon lofts, the beck that runs rust red. And a good start for some cliff walking.

We climbed the Cleveland Way to said cliffs and then it was just the North Sea before us, tranquil at high tide, the horizon sharp between pale and grey blues and small waves hissing. A hundred seagulls arrived and then moved on. There was also an inappropriate pheasant on the cliff edge.

Look inland and there are fields. Look ahead and there are very high jagged cliffs. Look back, not much though, not yet, there's time for that later.

After an hour we'd hit our high spot 800 feet above the sea, a point extra invigorating for an amphitheatre of abandoned quarry. Perched on a wall we looked north, to half of Hartlepool 15 miles away and then a terrific distance up the tapering Durham coast. But this not a guaranteed view, any haze would close it out.

A birdwatcher said he'd seen two yellow-browed warblers, and that they only come this time of the year on the easterlies from Siberia, rare visitors, they look like goldcrests.

After the cliffs the second half of this route is not so spectacular, but it's alright. Some very quiet back road, a few field edges, the sight of valley villages, a bench, a terrace of mining houses and then a good overview of Skinningrove. We stood under the three-phase

power by a well-ordained communications mast and listened to the steel works across the valley emitting intermittent metallic sounds. Then after skirting a zone of horsetails, the primitive plants

not animal appendages, we were down.

The mining museum is clearly well worth a visit, for the one and a half-hour guided underground tours. If I were doing this walk/visit again I'd start early, have lunch then get subterranean.

We wandered the village, found some old houses and buildings, especially the tall pub that has long been called Timm's Coffee House, but actually has no history of coffee.

directions

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed.

Left from car park along Marine Terrace (Cleveland Way sign), left over bridge, steps up to cliff-edge path. After about a mile of the cliffs ignore right turn, leave Cleveland Way, stay on path nearest cliff edge.

Path swings right uphill then old quarry to left, one step up and right turn (waymarked post).

Double back left at junction (waymarked post), right at top of hill (fence to left).

Stile into field and immediately left, stile, field-edge path, right to road (some verge).

Path on left and 5 yards to stile (waymarked), 100 yards, stile on right (waymarked), keep straight on (4 stiles).

Cross road to track, gateway after mast, 100 yards and as track bends left find faint path down shallow gully and follow hedge to right as it curves round above boggiest bit to fenced gap, left downhill over grass. At tarmac path left for Mining Museum (right at steps downhill), or right for car park.

fact file

Distance: Four miles.

Time: Two hours.

General location: Coast south of Teesside.

Start: Skinningrove.

Right of way: All public.

Date walked: Friday 14 October 2005.

Road route: From York, the A19, A172, A173 to Guisborough, then A171 Whitby road for about seven miles, left turn signed 'Liverton, Loftus, Skinningrove'.

Car parking: Free car park by sea at Skinningrove, down Marine Terrace and Chapel Street.

Lavatories: None.

Refreshments: Inn and intermittent caf.

Tourist & public transport information: Tom Leonard Mining Museum open Monday to Saturday 1 April until 31 October 1pm - 3.45 p.m, Sundays in high season. November to March pre-booked parties only. Tel: 01287 642877. Website: www.ironstonemuseum.co.uk

Terrain: Cliff edge and hinterland.

Points of interest: Industrial archaeology.

Difficulty: Easy, 600 feet of climbing.

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.

Click here to view a map of the walk

Updated: 10:55 Saturday, October 22, 2005