Mike Tipping suggests some fine eisweins to round off a festive meal.
Eiswein is a rarity in this country but good ones are a real treat and a great way to round off a meal.
Because they're rare, I don't get to write about them too often, so forgive me for explaining what eiswein is, if you already know.
In vineyards where hard frosts occur in December or early January, grapes are left on the vines in the hope that the temperature drops to minus ten or so.
At this point, and it could be three o'clock on Christmas morning, the workforce is called in to harvest the frozen grapes. These are pressed before they thaw, the resultant juices being rich in sugar and acids.
Here are three examples from Germany with some supermarket availability.
Kerosene and roses sounds like a heavy rock band but is in fact an appropriate description of the flavours in Ruppertsberger Riesling Eiswein, Pfalz 2001. I recommended this sweet but fresh nectar, in the Tipping's Tipples Yuletide selection last year and it has figured in Decanter magazine's 48 best wines just recently.
Sadly this recommendation means that from now on the Ruppertsberger will, most likely, be as rare as rocking horse manure.
This is a great shame because it is very good and in eiswein terms, £14.99 for a half-bottle is quite cheap. My sources tell me it is stocked at Sainsbury's in Harrogate but don't blame me if it's all gone.
Kendermanns Eiswein 2003 is cheaper still at £8.49 but is nowhere near as good.
Wafts of caramel and orange zest and a little lemon marmalade on the palate make for a wine that is drinkable but somewhat lacking.
I'd be happier to pay a few pounds more for Pfeiffer Scheurebe Eiswein 2003 from Morrisons.
Scheurebe is a hybrid grape, a crossing of riesling and sylvaner. This example is a touch sticky but very tangy, with pear drops on the nose and flavours of citrus fruit and marmalade.
Germany isn't the only nation that produces eiswein. If you're feeling flush and need the perfect accompaniment for Christmas cake, try Mission Hill Family Estate Reserve Riesling Icewine 2003, from the Okanagan Valley of British Columbia, Canada.
"Golden brown texture like sun," to quote one of my favourite rock bands, it has aromas similar to the spices and dried fruit used in said cake.
A palate-stimulating, sorbet of raisins, cherry, orange peel, ginger, cinnamon and tea.
Ruppertsberger Riesling Eiswein, Pfalz 2001 (37.5cl), £14.99 at Sainsbury's where stocked 18/20
Kendermanns Eiswein 2003 (37.5cl), £8.49 at Tesco and Waitrose 13/20
Pfeiffer Scheurebe Eiswein 2003 (37.5cl), £12.99 at Morrisons 15/20
Mission Hill Family Estate Reserve Riesling Icewine 2003 (37.5cl), around £40 at Harrods, www.thebristolwinecompany.co.uk and www. harveysonline.co.uk 17/20
Tippling term of the week: Grange
The pricey flagship wine from Aussie producer Penfolds, made entirely from the shiraz grape. I'm still waiting for my press sample to arrive. I suspect I may be waiting some time!
Updated: 16:37 Friday, November 18, 2005
Comments: Our rules
We want our comments to be a lively and valuable part of our community - a place where readers can debate and engage with the most important local issues. The ability to comment on our stories is a privilege, not a right, however, and that privilege may be withdrawn if it is abused or misused.
Please report any comments that break our rules.
Read the rules hereComments are closed on this article