Passion for riesling

I received a questionnaire from my niece this week. It was part of a school project, I hope. If not, she has some strange hobbies! In one of the sections, I was asked to name my favourite drink. My answer was wine, what else? But I was quite specific in naming the grape variety from which it should be made - riesling.

German riesling doesn't figure on every wine drinker's radar and that suits me in some ways. The laws of supply and demand mean that you can find quality wines at a fair price - such as the following three examples available at larger Sainsbury's wine sections. Notice how no one has tried to give them snappy, New World-style names either.

At the promotional price, Querbach Hallgarten Riesling 2002 from the Rheingau region, is a steal. However, this is a discontinued line, so snap it up while you can. There are hints of citrus and stone fruits in this crisp and slightly effervescent wine. It is underpinned by rich, riesling characteristic, kerosene aromas and flavours. Incidentally, you'll need a bottle opener, not a corkscrew, for this one as the wine is sealed somewhat unconventionally.

Look no further for lunchtime drinking than Reichgraf Von Kesselstatt Riesling 1998, which is relatively low in alcohol. It's light, crisp, off-dry and best served as an aperitif. There's something different and pleasant about the flavours of lychees, apple and sherbet pips, in this Mosel-Saar-Ruwer wine.

A good crisp acidity is the perfect foil to the sweetness of a wine. Dr Loosen Graacher Himmelreich Riesling 2003, also from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region, is a good case study, being on the sweet side of off-dry and benefiting from nicely-balanced acidity. Its slightly effervescent, honeyed, grapefruit, orange and mineral flavours are a delight.

- Querbach Hallgarten Riesling 2002, £5.99 from £7.99 at Sainsbury's 18/20

- Reichgraf Von Kesselstatt Riesling 1998, £8.99 at Sainsbury's 16/20

- Dr Loosen Graacher Himmelreich Riesling 2003, £8.99 at Sainsbury's 16/20

Tippling term of the week: Jammy

Describing the sweet, fruity flavours found in some red wines, usually from the New World.

Updated: 16:22 Friday, January 06, 2006