Cabernet Sauvignons

DNA is a topical subject, what with talk of us all having to provide a swab for the greater good/police state of the future (delete as applicable).

But the use of DNA fingerprinting isn't just limited to catching Burglar Bill, it also allows scientists to pin down the origins of various grape varieties.

Take cabernet sauvignon, for instance. In 1997, scientists at the University of California showed that it is a crossing of cabernet franc and the white wine grape, sauvignon blanc. I think I'd like to offer my services as a guinea pig to such scientists. All in the name of research!

In preparation for the interview, I have made an analysis of the following examples of South American cabernet sauvignon.

Further proof that half-decent wine can be found for less than a fiver, comes in the shape of Santa Helena Discovery Range Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, from the Colchagua Valley in Chile. It is medium bodied and approachable but doesn't skimp on fruit - it positively gushes with cherry, plum, raspberry, vanilla and value for money.

More expensive and also from Chile but in my mind offering even better value, is Tabali Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2003. Ripe berry aromas and forward fruit flavours of raspberry and blackcurrant mingle beautifully with smoky oak, vanilla, a sprig of mint and vibrant tannins.

From the other side of the Andes, the Mendoza region of Argentina, comes a text book cabernet sauvignon, Zuccardi Q Cabernet Sauvignon 2000. Smooth and minty this example has the pencil lead* texture, so characteristic of the varietal. Hedgerow fruits, brambles in the main, and notes of cassis are well balanced by toasty oak flavours and tannins to spare.

*Pencil lead is used in the previous paragraph, as a description of texture. I appreciate that the term will only make sense to those of us who chewed pencils at primary school.

Santa Helena Discovery Range Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, £4.29 at Waitrose 16/20

Tabali Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, £6.99 at Sainsbury's 18/20

Zuccardi Q Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, £9.99 at Waitrose 17/20

Tippling term of the week: Kabinett

As found on some German wine labels, indicating that it is the lowest of the six categories that make up the QmP classification for the country's highest-quality wines.

Updated: 15:57 Friday, January 13, 2006