The School House Inn, Low Marishes, Malton

As we approached Low Marishes in the low winter sunlight last Sunday lunchtime, I felt I had found that much talked about but elusive state - peace and quiet. Just off the Malton to Pickering road, with a tiny chapel and a clutch of houses, it looks out on to an expanse of countryside on all sides.

So it is surprising, then, that it holds such an imposing building as The School House Inn. With crisp white walls, the former hotel has a smart, well-kept appearance. And when you step inside, the theme continues, with a simple, yet luxurious, dcor. My dining partner, Tom, said it felt like a farmhouse kitchen; one belonging to a really wealthy farmer with a very stylish wife.

He was right. Everything in the place is presented to perfection, from the white linen napkins to the silver-plated cutlery.

After a warm welcome at the bar, we ordered the designated driver (moi) a soda water, while Tom sampled a glass of English wine, Chapel Down Bacchus (£3.50), which was fruity and light.

Once settled at our table in the window by the fire we studied the menu.

What choice! From classics such as moules mariniere (£4) and home-cured salmon with dill crme fraiche (£4) to more creative dishes such as watercress soup with poached egg and truffle oil (£4) and pigeon breast, vegetable spaghetti and grape jus (£5.50), it all looked highly appealing.

Tom opted for the watercress soup while I went for salmon, and both were delicious.

Main courses were equally tough to choose, from rib eye steak with Yorkshire Blue butter (£13.95) to rabbit braised in cider and rosemary cream (£12), sea bass with braised fennel and green olive crust (£14), to confit of duck leg, sauted potatoes, frisse salad and red wine vinegar dressing (£9). For vegetarians the wild mushroom risotto and truffle oil (£9) looked tempting, and there were some more traditional favourites such as fish pie with minted peas (£9)and braised lamb shank (£12).

Sorry Thumper fans - I went for rabbit. The meat was tender and braised in a light and flavoursome sauce with plenty of wholegrain mustard and seasoning, and just the right amount of cream.

Tom opted for sea bass, which was similarly well prepared, with a mouth-watering crispy olive crust perfectly complementing the fish. It came with that rare thing: real chips, and a selection of perfectly-cooked fresh vegetables.

And so to dessert. The choice was agonising. We decided to pick one to share, which meant waving goodbye to the likes of sticky toffee pudding and butterscotch sauce, lemon posset with winter berries and lime sugar, rhubarb crumble and spiced poached pear.

In the end, I insisted on the bitter chocolate tart (it was the one which best fits into the GI diet - yes, an eyebrow was raised at the time).

It was sheer heaven. Dense dark chocolate on a pastry case served with a dollop of thick cream, strawberry coulis and fresh red berries. Of course it ruined the diet but who cares? It was fabulous!

We rounded things off with coffee, again served with great care on a tray with a silver-plated set of tongs for the sugar lumps.

We could have withdrawn to a very welcoming lounge area at this stage, with comfy sofas, coffee table and magazines, but we were settled where we were.

Finally, I must mention the toilets. Perhaps this is a girl thing but the lavatory is often the litmus test when it comes to restaurants. These ones are fantastic: spacious, clean, stylishly decorated (of course) and with individual hand towels.

If I have one complaint, it's that the seating is a little hard. After my indulgent dinner, perhaps a bony bottom will be a thing of the past, but I would advise anyone who likes their posterior well cushioned to get there early and nab one of the scatter cushions.

We left the schoolhouse feeling relaxed and thoroughly refreshed, having enjoyed a fabulous lunch for two at the cost of £49.95.

Claire went to the School House Inn on Sunday, January 15, 2005

The School House Inn, Low Marishes, Malton. Tel: 01653 668247

Food: delicious

Service: good

Value: fair

Ambience: calm

Disabled access: Yes

Updated: 10:10 Saturday, January 21, 2006