In Tipping's Tipples, Mike Tipping judges some reds by the label.

You wouldn't judge a book by its cover but a label on a bottle of wine may just sway your opinion.

In a survey by Chilean wine brand Yali, simple, understandable wine labels proved popular among those questioned.

This is where the New World tends to score over the Old, with wines labelled according to grape variety.

I don't have any problem recommending the following clearly labelled examples from the New World.

All three reds have scored very highly according to the Tipping's Tipples rating system. But you will perhaps have to consider that other great influencing factor - the price tag!

Firstly a terrific merlot courtesy of the previously-mentioned Chilean producer, Yali. From the Maipo Valley region of Chile, Yali Merlot Grand Reserve 2003 is dense, soft and beautifully textured with ripe berries and woody notes on the nose. It has a rich seam of toasty oak and enticing black cherry, bramble and blackcurrant fruit.

Perfect when you're watching your DVD of the film Sideways, for the umpteenth time, is a piquant pinot noir from California. Avila Pinot Noir 2004 has varietal characteristic raisin aromas and is as smooth as a baby's bottom. It is a truly juicy creation, suggestive of cherries, liquorice, treacle toffee, peppery spices and probably many other things, which you can enjoy identifying yourself.

Talking of juicy wines, I welcome the return of an awesome, old vines, zinfandel to the shelves of Oddbins. From California's Bonny Doon vineyard, Cardinal Zin 2003 is a well-laden fruit basket of ripe strawberry, blackcurrant and raspberry. Spices, toasty oak and supple tannins complete this perfectly balanced wine. Warming stuff for a winter night maybe but it's a shame the price tag is so prohibitive.

Yali Merlot Grand Reserve 2003, £7.99 at Somerfield 18/20

Avila Pinot Noir 2004, £9.99 at Oddbins 18/20

Bonny Doon Cardinal Zin 2003, £14.99 at Oddbins 18/20

Tippling term of the week: length

If a wine has flavours and aromas that linger on the palate, it is said to have good length. But please avoid the use of the obvious double-entendre in conversation.

Updated: 16:16 Friday, January 20, 2006