This isn't just any chardonnay, this is cheap Chilean chardonnay.

The next one isn't just chardonnay, it's Feng Shui Chilean chardonnay and the other one isn't just chardonnay, it's a French, vin de pays d'Oc chardonnay. The last wine isn't just chardonnay either, it's unoaked Hawke's Bay chardonnay from New Zealand. Needless to say, signed-up members of the ABC (anything but chardonnay) society, should read no further.

I expect a wine to be drinkable if it costs a fiver but I don't expect it to be as good as Anakena Chardonnay 2005. This wine from the Rapel Valley in Chile punches above its weight with fresh, forward fruit flavours of pineapple, apricot and lemon. As it is user friendly and tastes like it should have cost a couple of pounds more than it did, it's perfect for taking to parties.

Chilean producer Vina Montes has released its first Feng Shui wine into the UK. Or at least wines that come from a new winery designed with Feng Shui principles in mind. Montes Alpha Chardonnay 2004 is best drunk facing the window, with the mirror behind you as you keep one eye on the fish tank. If this is not possible, don't worry, the quality of the wine shines through whatever. From the Casablanca Valley, it is full but not heavy. Sweet, spicy oak flavours integrate with lingering, complex fruit, seasoned with white pepper and a dash of mustard.

Sporting a rather attractive label, La Belle Terrasse Unoaked Chardonnay 2004 vin de pays d'Oc is decent enough, especially if you don't care for oak-aged whites. New and exclusive to the shelves at Sainsbury's, this Languedoc chardonnay is rich, creamy and quaffable, with peach aromas and flavours of pineapple and lime.

Also unoaked and, uncannily, also exclusive to Sainsbury's, is Villa Maria Private Bin Hawke's Bay Unoaked Chardonnay 2005. It is crisp, young and fresh but quite substantial. A little ageing, sur lie, adds to the complexity of this wine which has aromas of freshly-baked bread and honey with peach and citrus fruit flavours. Being a New Zealand wine it is, of course, sealed with a screw cap.

Anakena Chardonnay 2005, £5 at Asda 18/20

Montes Alpha Chardonnay 2004, £9.99 at Majestic and Morrisons 17/20

La Belle Terrasse Unoaked Chardonnay 2004, £5.99 at Sainsbury's 16/20

Villa Maria Private Bin Hawke's Bay Unoaked Chardonnay 2005, £5.99 at Sainsbury's 16/20

Tippling term of the week: ullage

The gap in a bottle between the top of the wine and the bottom of the cork.

Updated: 15:47 Friday, March 24, 2006