Keeping the ancient craft of lacemaking alive in Pickering

ON the third Saturday of every month, a group of people meet in the village hall at Middleton, just outside Pickering. Their mission? To keep the ancient craft of lace-making alive.

The Pickering Lacemakers, they call themselves. The youngest of them is a teenager; the oldest are in their 90s. But they have one thing in common, their love of lace-making.

Lace has been around for a long time. Just think of Queen Elizabeth I, if you don’t believe that. In portraits, her pale face and clothing made of gorgeous, hand-embroidered fabrics make a statement; but it is the beautiful, intricate lace ruffs which really stand out, and which we associate, above all, with Elizabethan fashion.

Lace has been around a lot longer than that, however. Objects resembling lace bobbins have been found in Roman remains, although there are no known records of Roman lace-making.

It is thought that the craft may have begun in 14th century Flanders. Lace-making didn’t become really popular until the 15th and 16th centuries, however.

It became widespread in the 16th century when used in vestments for the Catholic church’s clergy, and then by the lords and ladies of the Tudor courts, when its popularity increased and spread across Europe.

It also became all the rage with Native American tribes in the 19th century when the craft was brought across the water by missionaries.

Lace has traditionally been used for many items, not only in clothing. Decorative household items such as tablecloths and doilies and even framed lacework have proved popular for centuries, and items such as handkerchiefs are frequently seen with lace edging, often lovingly crafted by maidens for their betrothed.

Much of the lace available today is machine-made, but there are still places where you can buy beautiful, hand-made laces, carefully crafted by those who spend long hours bent over needles or bobbins to create stunning work.

Enter the Pickering Lacemakers.

The group has been running since the mid-1980s, when the classes were held at Pickering Agricultural Centre as one of a number of traditional craft classes run by Askham Bryan College, run by Irene Tomlinson and the late Marjorie Holmes.

When the centre closed in the 1990s, the students decided that they loved lace-making so much that they set up their own class – and so they and tutor Irene moved to Middleton Village Hall, where they attract both keen and experienced lace-makers and novices who would love to learn the craft from the surrounding area and as far afield as Scarborough.

There are many ways to make lace, from cutwork to tape and knotted lace and crocheted and knitted lace to Guipure, but the two most popular and practised techniques are needle lace and bobbin lace.

“I teach continental and English bobbin and needle lace,” says Irene.

“There is a huge difference between the two and even then within each there are several different techniques and categories, such as Chantilly lace, a bobbin technique, and Honiton lace, made with needles.

“The designs for needle lace are more free-flowing and continuous whereas bobbin designs are constrained by a grid, often with 12 threads in use at once. Each technique has its own rules.”

Some members have been coming since the classes started in the 1980s and even though they have been learning the craft for nigh-on 20 years, there is still a huge amount for them to learn, such is the scope of styles and techniques.

“You never stop learning,” says Irene, who has been making lace since 1976.

Some of the younger members of the Lacemakers started learning when they were aged only nine.

For Irene, the social aspect of the group is as important to the 17 members as the learning.

“It’s a very friendly group. Some people have known each other for more than 20 years and have formed strong friendships and help and support each other through good times and bad,” she says. “We always welcome new members, beginners and people who are already experienced in making lace who’d like to learn more or just be part of our group.”

People make all sorts of items at the classes, including handkerchief edgings, pictures in lace, cards, rosettes for hair slides, wedding garters and even veils and petticoats, depending on their abilities.

“It’s never-ending,” says Irene. “It’s such a wide craft and lace can be used for so many things.”

Lace fans are also popular, although making them requires ambition because there is so much work involved and it’s a slow-worked craft and takes a long time; you need a lot of patience – but the end result is so rewarding, the time is worth every minute, says Irene.

“It’s such an absorbing craft you can absolutely lose yourself in, you concentrate so hard,” she says. “You don’t notice time passing, and many people I know have found it very soothing and helped them get through such things as bereavements.

“People get so much enjoyment and satisfaction from making lace. You look at it and think ‘I have done that’ and it’s very pleasing.”

Another bonus is that it doesn’t have to be an expensive hobby.

“You can buy antique bobbins which can cost £10 each, but you can set yourself up with all your equipment for as little as £40,” said Irene.

“If you opt for bobbin lace, you just need several bobbins and a pillow firm enough to hold pins, and if you want to learn needle lace all you need is needles and some calico.

“However, anyone who wants to come along and try it out can borrow some equipment to see if they like it.”

What is important about the group, though, is that they are keeping alive an ancient craft, which, Irene says, is vital.

“It’s good that we have some younger members who are keeping the craft alive as we are all afraid of losing it,” she says. “When I started in the mid-1970s, there was a great belief among educationalists that we needed to keep ancient crafts alive and there was a huge push for craft evening classes, but this has been forgotten and now it is up to little groups like ours to keep the craft alive.”

• If you are interested in joining Pickering Lacemakers, phone Irene on 01757 288656, or pop along to Middleton Village Hall, 10am to 3pm, on the middle Saturday of the month.