Sewing gives you more choice. That might sound a bit backwards when the high street provides us with rows of outfits that are updated weekly.

But the high street items are only the product of someone else’s design choices. With dressmaking, you are in charge.

At Gillies Fabrics in Peter Lane, York, owners Sue Barnes-Wilson and her daughter, Zoe Barnes-Chapman, guide me around their DIY fashion emporium.

I am overwhelmed by the amount of sewing equipment available. Sue runs down a long list of materials, thread, patterns, sewing machines and needles that can be found under their roof. “No matter what anyone needs, they can get it here,” she says.

Moving from the needle to the modern sewing machine and eventually to running sewing-machine classes, Gillies has been in the lives of York’s sewing enthusiasts for almost 50 years.

I have joined keen dressmakers at Gillies for a Know Your Sewing Machine class. I soon realise that the sewing machine opens up the world of choice.

Phrases such as “air loom stitching”, “pin wheel design” and “lace insertion” fly across the room as Zoe runs through some of the pieces the class have been working on.

“This class is about helping people to get the most of their machines,” says Zoe, before showing me an array of embroidery techniques. I watch stunned. Zoe makes it look like second nature. She says: “Once you’ve learnt how to construct garments, you can construct anything.”

Cherry Hibbitt is one of the keen dressmakers taking the class. Now a grandmother, she has made clothes since she was ten. She has come to Gillies for tips on using her new sewing machine and to pick up new ideas and enhance her skills.

She says: “I think sewing and knitting are things people should be proud of – they are skills. People are more proud of wearing something they’ve made than wearing something they’ve bought from a chain.”

Sewing in York certainly seems to be on the up. Rebecca Downes, a York-based dressmaker and sewing teacher, says: “I used to run a night class for the council and by the time I left we were getting more and more people.”

It is a good time to dig out the old sewing kit because there are many classes on offer across York.

Gillies run weekly sewing classes as well as specialist classes such as pattern cutting, tailoring and special occasion outfits.

Rebecca runs day courses creating small one-off items such as vintage aprons and City of York Council’s adult learning scheme offers anything from millinery to felt making. And that’s just the tip of the iceberg.

Back at Gillies, Sue says people take up sewing because they want to create something individual.

Zoe nods in agreement. “We show our character in what we wear, people want to look different,” she says.

It is also a guaranteed way to avoid turning up to an event in the same outfit as someone else. “Imagine turning up to a wedding in the same dress as the bride’s mother. It would be awful,” says Sue.

Sewing is also economical, according to Rebecca. “Make do and mend is a big thing at the moment,” she says, adding that savvy shoppers prefer to update and repair items rather than waste money replacing them.

Dressmaking is stress-busting too, adds Sue. “More people work now and they reckon more people struggle with stress. Sewing is one of the most relaxing things to do – and you end up with something at the end.”

It’s greener as well. Sue notes: “We became a throwaway society and people have realised that it’s wrong. People are wanting to mend or alter stuff now.”

Sue attributes part of the sewing revival to the TV programmes on fashion sweatshops. “People were upset to see the children making their clothes in such poor conditions.”

Rebecca echoes this: “Now people want to know where their clothes came from.”


Get sewing…

Gillies Fabrics runs a series of one-off and ten-week short courses. For more information, telephone 01904 626244. There are several other sewing classes taking place in York in coming weeks, here are a few suggestions…

May 14 to 15: Bunting workshop, York Does Vintage meets Souk, 10am to 4pm, £1, contact enquiries@rebeccadownes.co.uk

May 19: Trouser Shortening, Gillies Fabrics, 2.30pm to 4pm, £25, phone 01904 626244

May 20: Bodice Construction, Gillies Fabrics, 10am to 4pm, £90, phone 01904 626244

May 21: Embroidery – Goldwork, Quilt Museum, 10am-3pm, £25, phone 01904 552806

June 3: Dressmaking Tips for Beginners Part 1, Gillies Fabrics, 10am to 4pm, £90, phone 01904 626244

June 5: Felt Hat Making Workshop, Grace & Jacob, 10am to 5pm, £40, phone 01904 627583

June 6: Textiles For Fashion & Home, York High School, six weeks, £50, 01904 552806

June 8: Dressmaking, York High School, 6 weeks, 7pm to 9pm £50, phone 01904 552806

June 11: Felt Making – create a hand felted silk scarf, Danesgate Centre, 10am to 3pm, £25, phone 01904 552806

June 12: Love To Sew… A Vintage Apron, Love to Eat Food Store, 9am to 4pm, £35, enquiries@rebeccadownes.co.uk

June 17: Summer Dress, Gillies Fabrics, 10am to 4pm, £90, phone 01904 626244

June 26: Learn to Sew Workshop, Grace & Jacob, 10am to 5pm, £40, phone 01904 627583

July 3: Children’s Class, Gillies Fabrics, 1pm to 4pm, £45, phone 01904 626244

July 10: Nuno Felt Making Workshop, Grace & Jacob, 10am to 5pm, £40, phone 01904 627583

July 17: Love To Sew… A Vintage Apron, Love To Eat Food Store, 9am to 4pm, £35, enquiries@rebeccadownes.co.uk

July 26: Textiles – Make A Vintage Floral Bag, Huntington School, 10am to 3pm, £25, contact 01904 552806