GAVIN AITCHISON takes the measure of Wetherspoon’s Punch Bowl in York.

IT’S a divided old pub, is The Punch Bowl in Blossom Street. It’s been that way since the 18th century. Back then, like its namesake pubs, its clientele was determined by politics.

Punch was the favoured drink of the Whig party and by displaying the Punch Bowl sign, landlords were basically nailing their political colours to the mast. Or rather, to the front door.

Such days are long gone. But if the Punch Bowl sign no longer causes a rift, then the name accompanying this particular one certainly polarises opinion. JD Wetherspoon seems to prompt debate at every turn. Some see the firm as the drinker’s champion, providing a wide range of beer at cheaper prices than most – and you certainly can’t doubt its success.

It opened its 800th UK branch in Ripon in April and has secured a massive promotions deal with Camra, seen by many as a ringing endorsement. If that weren’t enough, trade magazine The Publican named the firm pub company of the year for 2010, which suggests it is doing many things right.

Others though, are less impressed.

To some, Wetherspoon’s is too big, too corporate and too monotonous – lacking the quirky distinctiveness that many pub-goers cherish, or perhaps a genuine, demonstrable, heartfelt passion for beer. That Camra deal itself made many members uncomfortable and even on these pages, it seems I can neither write about nor overlook Wetherspoon’s without prompting a backlash.

Online readers have accused me before of ignoring their pubs. Others have said they deserve ignored. I scarcely dare read what they’ll say about this, a whole article focussing on the company!

But into that storm we go, for the The Punch Bowl in Blossom Street demands attention. It holds one of the most enviable positions of any pub in York, in the shadow of Micklegate Bar and first port of call for anyone who turns right out of the station.

It’s an historic pub as well, dating back at least 228 years – originally limited to Blossom Street but, after expanding into an old butcher’s shop in 1974, now monopolising the corner with Nunnery Lane.

And, judging by the numbers in on successive weeknights last week, it’s a pub clearly doing pretty well.

Deservedly so? Well – flak jacket and helmet on – yes, I’d say so. I found the beer range varied and the quality good. Between us, my friends Ian and Gill and I had Abbot Ale, Ruddles, Leeds Midnight Bell, Daleside Special, Saltaire Cascade Pale and York Brewery’s Pride of York, and all were pleasant and clearly well kept.

Those last two were particularly enjoyable. The Pride of York has been produced to mark York Brewery’s 15th anniversary and is a punchy pale ale, with potent fruit flavours and a hearty ABV of 4.8 per cent. It was very easy-drinking and a fitting nod to the success York has enjoyed over the past decade and a half.

The Cascade Pale, also weighing in at 4.8 per cent ABV, was a bit paler and more heavily hopped, with a dryer, bolder, crisper body, and it hit the spot perfectly as a post-work refresher on that hot Thursday we’ve just had.

And so to the overall verdict then? Well, it’s like this... the idealist in me would always prefer a family-owned, free-house with a quirky character all of its own. But sometimes, all that’s needed is good beer and a bit of grub, in a pleasant setting with staff who know what they’re doing.

The Punch Bowl offers all those things in buckets. And for that reason, it’s well worth a shot. Whig or otherwise.

• Follow Gav at twitter.com/pintsofview for beery news, views and chat throughout the week.