Victorian cloth magnate Sir Titus Salt built his colossal mill on the banks of the river Aire near Shipley in West Yorkshire.

As a philanthropic employer he also built a model village for his workforce, with everything they needed for a wholesome lifestyle – church, library, school, park – but no pubs. The mill, rescued and renovated by the visionary Jonathan Silver, now houses trendy shops, a bistro and an art gallery with a huge collection of works by local boy David Hockney. Saltaire village has been declared a World Heritage Site and the nearby Victorian generating hall has become... a brewery.

Sir Titus must be spinning in his grave! Several Saltaire beers have featured here over the years, all very thoroughly labelled, emphasising the brewery’s innovative and informative approach. This week we encounter a very recent addition to the range, Hazelnut Coffee Porter.

The colour is chestnut brown, lighter than most porters, and there is a frothy but brief head. On the nose it is quite sweet, with coffee and roasted nuts both much in evidence, but chocolate too, and cream.

The flavour is very much a reflection of the aroma, with sweet, almost milky coffee, light chocolate, and a nuttiness that is quite definitely hazelnut.

The texture is perhaps more like a brown ale than a porter, with creamy vanilla and just a gentle hoppiness. Some roasty bitterness and a hint of cherry-like fruit appear towards the finish.

Hazelnut? Definitely.

Coffee? No doubt. Porter?

Well, maybe, but who’s arguing?