Most red wines can be described as spicy, it’s just a question of degrees. Whether it’s top Burgundian pinot noir or bargain basement Chilean merlot, there is usually a hint of piquancy therein.
But I reckon the grenache grape, or garnacha as the Spanish call it, makes for the spiciest reds of all.
Grenache is a sun-loving, late-ripening grape, that thrives in hot and dry regions. It is frequently blended with other grape varietals because it can be short on structure and acidity but it is certainly not lacking when it comes to pepperiness and fruitiness.
These spicy, fruit-forward qualities are just what the doctor ordered when it comes to barbecue grub. With this in mind, I’ve picked three Old World reds where grenache is a key player, as I am taking the rather optimistic view that we will be having a barbecue summer.
If my optimism proves unfounded, I’ve hedged my bets, as grenache and Grenache-blend wines match well with rich, warming, casseroles too!
Altos d’Olivia Garnacha 2009 is an affordable example of the grape as a single varietal, from Catalunya in north-east Spain. With ripe, dark-fruit flavours, liquorice, black pepper and a hint of scorched earth, it is very good glugging.
Alternatively, at a similar price, head to the Rhône for a favourite of Wine Society chief buyer, Sebastian Payne. Domaine Jaume Côtes-du-Rhône 2008 is a GSM blend, an acronym for grenache, syrah and mourvèdre.
As you might expect, this is a spicy red with plenty of guts, blackberry and raspberry fruit flavours, liquorice and some smoky notes on the finish.
Or for a little more outlay there is a stunning syrah, grenache cuvée from the Languedoc, Château Paul Mas “Clos des Mûres” 2009, Coteaux du Languedoc. Actually, this is a bit of a cheat on my part as the wine is predominantly syrah but the grenache certainly plays its part.
This is a complex wine, rich and earthy, with flavours of plum, bramble, black pepper, violet, clove, Garrigue herbs, and some toasty oak notes. It is held together by a fine tannic structure which will help it age nicely in the cellar. A good choice to go with venison.
Altos d’Olivia Garnacha 2009, Catalunya, £6.95 at FromVineyardsDirect (fromvineyardsdirect.com) 17/20
Domaine Jaume Côtes-du-Rhône 2008, £7.25 at The Wine Society (thewinesociety.com) 17/20
Château Paul Mas “Clos des Mûres” 2009, Coteaux du Languedoc, £11.99 at Flourish & Prosper (Howden) 19/20
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