A few decades ago barley wines were produced by most breweries, but these days the term is seldom used, with brewers preferring to refer to their high strength offerings as “strong ales”.

Perhaps the term is seen as old fashioned or down market, but this was not always the case... quite the reverse in fact.

At the beginning of the 19th century, as Britain’s seemingly perpetual wars with France reached their climax, it became the patriotic duty of the British aristocracy to forego the pleasure of French wine in favour of something home-grown. Since beer was regarded as too proletarian, a compromise was reached by brewing beer to the same strength as wine, 12 per cent or more, and calling it “barley wine”. Honour was satisfied.

This week’s feature is one of two barley wines produced once a year at the tiny Dunham Massey Brewery in Cheshire.

It has a deep orange colour, a slight haze from bottle conditioning, and a very brief, thin head. Alcohol is immediately apparent on the nose along with toffee and caramelised orange, and a faintly sour lactic note in the background.

There is intense, almost syrupy malt on the palate, with bitter sweet orange marmalade the dominant flavour, but a noticeable vinous woodiness too.

The thick, mouth coating texture gives great length to the flavours. A robust bitterness breaks through the dense malty sweetness and clings on into a long, warm, smoky finish.

Distinctive, complex, and rather Belgian in style… and quite wine-like, as its name suggests.

As recommended by Jim Helsby, of the York Beer And Wine Shop, Sandringham Street, York