In this week’s Tipping’s Tipples, MIKE TIPPING picks some sauvignon that packs a punch on the flavour front.

Sauvignon can be so, so-so. Conversely, it can be totally over the top on the flavour front. I associate, perhaps unfairly, the over-the-top style with Marlborough, New Zealand.

Not that all Marlborough sauvignon is overly aggressive, many examples are fantastic and I rate them highly.

But some are an affront to the senses: think whiff of tomcat with a shot of weapons-grade gooseberry!

In contrast, the Old World has some of the finest and most expensive sauvignon, such as Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, which have more subtlety.

However, subtlety should not be confused with lack of flavour. I’m always sceptical of back labels claiming, “subtle hints of...”. Often this means it doesn’t taste of much at all.

And then, this world of wine always seems to throw-up exceptions.

Some Old World sauvignon tastes New World in style and vice-versa.

Having said all this, sauvignon blanc is very rarely my first pick. Given a choice of whites, I’d be far more likely to plump for riesling.

Yet you only have to take a glance at the supermarket wine aisle to appreciate how popular sauvignon is.

With these factors in mind I’ve picked three good examples of the grape this week. Like Mummy bear’s porridge, they are just right.

Neither too punchy, nor too dull.

Firstly, Château Marotte 2009 Cuveé M. White, from Bordeaux. Actually this is a blend, predominantly sauvignon blanc, but tempered with some sémillon. Light, crisp and grassy, it has aromas of elderflower and flavours of orchard fruit, citrus and some minerality.

The aforementioned Marlborough sauvignon blanc, like most Kiwi wine, tends to be relatively expensive. Cliff Edge Sauvignon Blanc 2010 is one of the best I’ve tried in the under a tenner category.

Fresh and clean tasting, it reveals notes of tropical fruit, green pepper, garden pea and lime, without being over the top.

Chile, on the whole, produces sauvignon blanc that pitches it just right for me. Errazuriz Aconcagua Costa Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2010, being one example.

It has quite intense aromas of grapefruit and fresh-cut grass, with flavours of passion fruit, herbs and minerals.

Wine list

Château Marotte Cuveé M. White 2009, Bordeaux, £7.49 at Waitrose 16/20.

Cliff Edge Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Marlborough, £7.95 at The Halifax Wine Company 18/20.

Errazuriz Aconcagua Costa Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2010, £11.99 at Waitrose 17/20.