Bruce Williams’s beers have had a fairly peripatetic existence over the last quarter century or so.

Starting at Bruce’s homebrew shop in Partick, they moved first to Taynult, then Alloa, then Strathaven, then finally back to Alloa in 2004.

Bruce is perhaps best known for his recreations of old Pictish recipes involving all kinds of unusual ingredients, but he can turn his hand to more conventional brews with equal conviction. This week we encounter his porter, Midnight Sun.

Very dark brown, almost black in colour, it pours with a thin, fizzy, persistent head. The aroma is powerful and complex, with blackcurrant and coffee most obvious but plenty more in the background… licorice, charcoal, tobacco and something spicy, maybe nutmeg.

On the palate, there is roasted malt and more coffee, more licorice too, and hints of bitter chocolate and ginger.

The texture is smooth and slightly oily with a moderate carbonation. The aftertaste is long and dry, with earthy hops spicing up the finish.

This would be good with a beef casserole or some strong cheeses, but maybe at its best as a winter comforter.

As recommended by Jim Helsby, of the York Beer And Wine Shop, Sandringham Street, York