“Harmless”, is the one-word description for earth, in The Hitchhiker’s Guide To The Galaxy. The revised edition, we are told in Douglas Adams’ sci-fi cult comedy, will read, “mainly harmless”.

Similarly, the Oxford Companion to Wine, an essential reference book for any wine aficionado, has little more to say about the caiño blanco grape.

It contains a short description under the heading caiño tinto, which reads: “a light berried caiño blanco is also found, particularly in Rias Baixas”.

It’s little wonder the grape is not more widely grown. It is the least productive of the white Galician varieties and it ripens late also. What’s more, caiño blanco is prone to mildew and diseases. On the plus side it is capable of making one of the best white wines I have tasted for years.

Spanish producer Bodegas Terras Gauda’s La Mar 2010 doesn’t come cheaply, it’s around the same price as an average bottle of non-vintage Champers, but it is worth every penny. It’s made with caiño blanco but with some albariño and loureiro in the mix too. Creamy in the mouth, it suggests tropical fruit, lemon, apple and honey, with floral notes and minerals. There’s a refreshing lift of acidity on the finish too.

For less outlay from the same producer I can also highly recommend another excellent white, Terras Gauda Abadia de San Campio Albariño 2011. Crisp, bright and exceedingly fresh, it has a hint of effervescence, with flavours of ripe grapefruit, lemon and orchard fruit.

I was also impressed by a red, from the same producer, under the Pittacum label and made with the mencia grape from Spain’s Bierzo region.

Pittacum Bierzo 2007 is a smooth, rich and spicy drop, full of black cherry, plums and dark chocolate, with violets and vanilla. Supple tannins and fresh acidity keep everything in balance and the woody influence, in this example, isn’t overplayed either; it’s aged for eight months in French and American oak.

• All three wines are available by mail order from Les Caves de Pyrene, telephone 01483 554750 or email (shop@lescaves.co.uk). The prices given are for a single bottle, including VAT. You can also buy the last two wines online from Slurp (slurp.co.uk).

Terras Gauda La Mar 2010, Rias Baxas, £25.20 19/20

Terras Gauda Abadia de San Campio Albariño 2011, Rias Baxas, £13 18/20

Pittacum Bierzo 2007, Bierzo, £12.75 18/20