Swinegate has come a long way since its rather insalubrious early days. In the latest in his occasional series on York’s streets, MATT CLARK takes a look round one of the city’s most cosmopolitan quarters.

IT’S funny how places change over the years. Grape Lane is one of the oldest streets in York and firmly on the money these days, but in medieval times its reputation was somewhat unsavoury.

Then it was known as Grope Street and home to the city’s ladies of the night, despite most of the houses being owned by the church.

It is a different story now; no more red lights, instead bright signs, impossibly sophisticated shops and some of York’s smartest restaurants. Grape Lane is part of the city’s rejuvenated Swinegate Quarter, so called after the medieval pig market.

At the far end an intriguing snickelway called Coffee Yard connects the lane with Stonegate. This is where York’s first printers set up and the first newspapers were printed, including the forerunner of The Press. It is also where Hugo Goes caused a revolution.

With only a tiny window and tallow candles for light, Goes peered into his box of type and selected 14 one-inch letters.

They spelled Thomas Hannibal – the first words in the first book to be printed in York.

They also spelled doom for the city’s scribes who were about to see an end to their livelihoods.

At the Stonegate entrance look out for the red printer’s devil sign indicating where the first print works was established.

The courtyards off Grape Lane were also teeming with printers and book binders, although the wonderfully eccentric Quacks is all that remains. Established in 1703, the name derives from its original title of The Queen Anne Copy Shop (QACS).

Halfway along Coffee Yard is Barley Hall, a stunning medieval house which was once home to the Priors of Nostell and the Lord Mayor.

It’s amazing to think the hall spent years hidden behind a derelict office block. When the building was eventually scheduled for demolition, Barley Hall was rediscovered.

Now the hall has been restored to its original splendour and decorated as it would have been when it was the Snawsell family home around 1483. The hall boasts beautiful exposed timber frames, a magnificent Great Hall and what is said to be the only horn window in England.

As its name suggests, Coffee Yard was also home to York’s first coffee house which opened in the 18th century as a place to catch up on the day’s gossip. These days you cannot move for cafés and bistros in Swinegate.

Nor can you move for designer shops, galleries and even real Italian ice cream.

An unusual building in Grape Lane is the hexagonal Grape Lane Chapel of 1781, which was taken over by the Primitive Methodists in 1820. Now it’s a trendy wine bar and restaurant.

An especially good time to visit Swinegate is the first weekend of December for the Festival of Angels. The streets are decorated with ice statues, artificial snow falls and there are food stalls and entertainers to add to the atmosphere.

Cosmopolitan Swinegate Quarter has come a long way since its rather insalubrious beginnings and if summer ever pops its head round the corner, where better to spend a few al fresco hours in the sunshine?