CHARLES William Bigge - country gentleman, banker, Whig, JP and High Sheriff of Northumberland - would, I think, have approved.

Linden Hall was built almost 200 years ago in the heart of the Northumberland countryside as a home for himself, his wife and their six children, along with a butler, coachman, grooms, housekeeper, kitchenmaid, housemaid and lady's maid.

Designed by Greek revivalist Sir Charles Monck, it was a fine example of Georgian architecture with a Greek flavour, as illustrated by the four doric columns at the entrance portico.

The hall was turned into a country house hotel in 1980, since when it has been tastefully restored. It is now owned and operated by Macdonald Hotels Ltd. I stayed for a night there with my wife in the summer, during a two-night weekend break in the north-east.

Heading down the long drive through 450 acres of park and woodland, we felt like favoured guests arriving for a weekend of shooting pheasants - hopefully not peasants - with Mr Bigge. We just needed a horse and carriage and we could have been back in the 19th century.

But once inside, we found luxurious modern features of which Bigge could not have dreamed. These included a health and beauty spa and well-appointed en-suite bedrooms. After arriving tired after our journey, I could hardly wait for a swim in the indoor heated pool, and then a relax in the steam room and sauna.

A different sort of relaxation is catered for by the 18-hole golf course, featuring streams and ponds, which surrounds the hotel.

Dinner was served in the Dobson Restaurant, which has two AA Rosettes and uses many locally sourced ingredients. The food was excellent, the service attentive.

The next day, free to explore this huge and sparsely populated part of the country, we headed for Alnwick. This interesting old town has two outstanding features: one of Europe's finest castles and one of the most magnificent modern gardens in Europe.

We had been to Alnwick Castle before but had no hesitation in returning. It dates back to the 11th century and the walls in the lavish state rooms are hung with Old Masters including Canalettos, Van Dycks and Titians.

One of Alnwick's most famous sons was Harry Hotspur, immortalised by Shakespeare in the history play Henry IV.

A life-size statue of Harry on horseback greets visitors, although many are more interested in a Harry of the wizard kind. Scenes from the first two Harry Potter movies were filmed at the castle, and Harry Spotter tours are conducted by a friendly witc, who shows visitors locations used for the films.

Right next door is a contemporary garden created by the Duchess of Northumberland out of a derelict 12-acre walled garden. She wanted somewhere for contemplation, fun, inspiration and education. The garden, officially opened in 2002 by its patron, Prince Charles, features a spectacular water cascade which thrills children with its magical water jets. Once they tire of the water, they can then be fascinated by one of the largest tree houses in the world.

The gardens are the work of Belgian designer Jacques Wirtz and his son, Peter.

Our other night in Northumberland was a few miles further north at the Famous Schooner Hotel at Alnmouth (motto: comfort with character).

This listed coaching inn dates back to the 17th century and boasts an historical A-list of guests, including Charles Dickens, John Wesley, Douglas Bader and King George III, and it may well become a haunt of 21st century celebrities once its refurbishment has been completed.

We stayed in an en-suite bedroom with magnificent view across the Aln estuary, and were fed like royalty in the Indian restaurant attached to the hotel.

Wesley enthused about Alnmouth when he visited the town in 1748, declaring it to be a "small seaport famous for all kinds of wickedness". I couldn't spot the vaguest naughtiness during our visit, only a pleasant, friendly little town surrounded on three sides by water at the mouth of the River Aln, and fronted on the other side by miles of empty golden sandy beach.

The Schooner was an excellent base for visiting Lindisfarne on Holy island and the imposing Bamburgh Castle.

The coastline of Northumberland is phenomenal, having some of the best sandy beaches in Britain. There was hardly a soul around, although that might have had something to do with seawater so cold it could put a fish off swimming.

Fact file

Macdonald Linden Hall Hotel, Morpeth, Northumberland.

Phone 0870 194 2123 or visit www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk/lindenhall

Famous Schooner Hotel, Alnmouth, Northumberland.

Phone 01665 830216