YORK'S Hamish McArthur finished fifth as teammate Toby Roberts became the first British climber to claim an Olympic medal after taking a shock gold in the men's Boulder and Lead in Paris.

The 19-year-old seemed set to be heading for silver, but saw favourite, Japanese sensation Anraku Sorato, slip off the 15m ascent in a dramatic conclusion at the Le Bourget Climbing Venue.

Roberts' total of 92.1 points out of a possible 100 in the Lead had given him provisional gold with a score of 155.2, but 17-year-old Sorato lost his grip before passing the 86 points that would have given him victory.

He instead finished with 145.4 points, with 33-year-old Austrian Jakob Schubert taking bronze with 139.6.

Audible gasps could be heard among the 6,000 strong crowd in the French capital as Sorato fell from the wall, with Roberts in utter disbelief at having claimed gold.

"I am just lost for words," he told the BBC. "To find out that I had got the gold in that moment was truly incredible.

"I've been training for this moment for my whole life. To say it hasn't sunk in is just an understatement.

"I don't really know what to think right now. I imagine later, there will be a flood of emotions and I will realise it's a gold I have been training for for 10 years. No words!"

Britain's Toby Roberts took a dramatic gold ahead of Japanese favourite Sorato Anraku and Austria's Jakob Schubert.Britain's Toby Roberts took a dramatic gold ahead of Japanese favourite Sorato Anraku and Austria's Jakob Schubert. (Image: PA)

McArthur scraped into today's final after an eighth-placed finish in the semi-finals, whilst Roberts qualified in second behind Sorato, the heavy favourite to take gold.

His performance was somewhat of a shock, with even his own family, co-owners of York Ghost Merchants on Shambles, having not bought tickets for today's final.

First to take to the wall, the York talent produced a stunning performance in the Boulder, taking a top on the first of four boulders to leave himself fourth behind Sorato, American Colin Duffy and Roberts - the only climber to top on the third boulder.

He then laid down the marker in the Lead, building on his 53.9 boulder score to finish with a combined 125.9 points, a total that ensured he finished above Czechian Adam Ondra (120.1), reigning champion Alberto Ginés López (116.2) and Frenchman Paul Jenft (78.4).

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"That was close [to a medal], but it was also close to being worse as well as it was close to being better," McArthur enthused to the BBC.

"I really can't complain about anything, I had the time of my life being here." 

Having battled demons that almost saw him stop climbing competitively, he admits that he has had the time of his life in Paris this week.

The 23-year-old explained: "Right up until the Olympics, I hadn't even been sure if I wanted to compete this year, even since qualifying. I thought about backing out and not even coming just because I wasn't sure how it would feel and if I even wanted to be a part of this.

"But I did myself proud and I enjoyed it more than I ever thought that I could.

"I was [having a great time], I'm really glad that's how it came across because I was loving it.

"It's not every day that thousands of people cheer your name - that feels good. I wanted to make the most of that and it also helped my climbing performance.

"I think I did a really good job on the wall as well, but I've been really proud of my mindset, and I haven't let the pressure get to me.

"It's just been great the whole way."